here we go again....need a project name though..

[blacksheep-1]

The radiator showed up, of course it didn't fit which required a redesign of the splitter bracket..I think it's much cleaner now..

[blacksheep-1]

Yes I did.....in 10.5


https://www.maperformance.com/products/ ... 9d75382df9

[blacksheep-1]

Under all that crud was an H code C4 trans after all..

[blacksheep-1]

whipped up a radiator support and obtained an aluminum 3 row from e bay. It doesn't look like much, but the rad is 2 inches back and lower than stock.

[twistedwankel]

You are constantly full of surprises. I thought the C4 has a funky shift pattern in the valve body? Or are you going to make it a manual shift using a revised unit? I assume the slush box is a lot less hassle to install with quicker shifts and fewer parts than a stick. I've always been a fan of torque converters and raced several.

[blacksheep-1]

It depends on the scroungeability of parts, I've been flirting with the idea of an auto for awhile, back in the day ?I discovered that shifting took too much time, depending on the layout of the course it was faster to accelerate the car then leave it in one gear, I'm thinking about a manual valve body and..and this kinda depends on a lot of stuff...maybe a coupler instead of a converter,
The other things is that being a kart racer I'm naturally a left foot braker, something you can't do with a clutch

[blacksheep-1]

Well the wheels finally showed up today, I gave up on the red ones and just had them ship the silvers....played around with ride height and also reworked a bunch of splitter stuff.

[Loren]

Nothing like wheels and tires to make a car start looking whole!

The other things is that being a kart racer I'm naturally a left foot braker, something you can't do with a clutch

Hmmm... I must have skipped that lesson. I LFB with a clutch all the time. You just have to learn the dance. Sometimes the foot is here, sometimes the foot is there. Sometimes I'm heel-toe braking with the right foot, sometimes, I'm braking with the left foot and never coming off of the gas with the right.

[blacksheep-1]

But I'm getting older and too many pedals confuse me, now if I had a sequential box......

[blacksheep-1]

Finished the splitter after the 40 redesign..

The bottom with skid plates




Good old Flex Seal to seal the plywood


Bracketry so it can be removed with 4 bolts


All paired together

[blacksheep-1]

So while mocking up the suspension it became clear the strut cartridge would bottom out on the adjustment plate

[blacksheep-1]

Thus began my search for a shorter strut package, or possible some cheapo coil overs, what I discovered was that Fox body struts are shorter when compared to the 99-04 units.




With that info in hand, I decided on a set of KYB adjustable units.

[Loren]

They do hood bulges for intakes and stuff... why not for strut tops?

[blacksheep-1]

The next dilemma was to rebuild the Cobra brakes, you can locate these rebuilt, but the ones with the COBRA stamp are $250 for each, so I set about rebuilding my own, since nobody does that anymore, the kits are very hard to locate, I finally found a set from Summit and ordered them...

Then I set about bead blasting and disassembling the calipers..



I used the heat gun to warm up the calipers for painting.

[blacksheep-1]

They do hood bulges for intakes and stuff... why not for strut tops?

I may have to, but the problem is that the cartridge bottoms out on the bottom of the strut tower, I can place washers under the adjustment plates, but I still needed more room

[Loren]

Move the top of the strut tower up!

But, really, with the body of the car being that low, I guess you don't need that much travel, anyway.

[blacksheep-1]

Move the top of the strut tower up!

But, really, with the body of the car being that low, I guess you don't need that much travel, anyway.

these cars are flexy flyers at best, doing some surgery like that is inviting problems, I thought about that for a nanosecond and went on my way

[blacksheep-1]

So while assembling the PBR calipers, I had to fight to get the seals to index correctly on the caliper, I seriously considered tossing the seals, but decided what the heck, I'll go with them. I have some limited experience with PBS brakes based on the Porsche program, and although these are not the same design, there was plenty of complaining about those calipers as well. There is a reason Brembo was created



this is a side shot of the seal showing where the seal lips have to index




The tendency is to drive the piston to the bottom of the bore and then seat the seal, that would make sense if the seal were a normal type with a metal ring around them, these aren't these suck, and are a PITA. As you can see when the piston is not driven all the way down, this way you can snake the seal into the caliper, then you can place it on the piston. (pic 2)




In pic 3 we see what happens when the piston is driven to the bottom of the bore, the seal cannot be forced into the caliper, but only the piston, if this happens take some compressed air and carefully blow the piston back out using the brake line hole, and go to pic 2.

Also, in pic 4 we see all the parts correctly indexed on both the piston and the caliper, this is quite the PITA, don't use a screw driver to force the seal in, you will tear it, use something round, and work your way around the seal to get it in, then pound the piston all the way into the bore.

[blacksheep-1]

Sooooo I open up the instructions on the KYB adjustable shocks and this is the instruction sheet..srsly??

THIS is the instructions..



must be made in Egypt

[Loren]

You opened the... wait... what?