Da Groj

Nice try no trophy this year.

You should paint them black instead of grey.

The hood is aluminum, correct? The STI and believe the EVO were some of the first to have the lighter weight body parts - cars were certainly improving! Keep posting!

Finally washed and sealed it after a month of not. Something something about gas vapor not being able to escape when the paint is coated. I'll have to put some pics up before the bumper starts accumulating cone marks again. Oh yea, it actually came with less orange peel than the factory paint so the painter was super legit!

AScoda wrote: Thu Aug 13, 2020 10:27 pm You should paint them black instead of grey.

twistedwankel wrote: Sat Jul 25, 2020 8:16 pm Nice try no trophy this year.

Jokes on you no trophy's for anyone this year .

Tim_M wrote: Fri Aug 14, 2020 7:05 am The hood is aluminum, correct? The STI and believe the EVO were some of the first to have the lighter weight body parts - cars were certainly improving! Keep posting!

Yep aluminum it is and they def need some aluminum for their hefty selves.

Like peanut butter and jelly.
Not for everyone.
Guys with trophy wives don't lick boots.
Or drive orphan cars.

CaptainSquirts wrote:Finally washed and sealed it after a month of not. Something something about gas vapor not being able to escape when the paint is coated.

Have to let the solvents in the paint evaporate before you wax or seal it -- if you trap them under a layer of wax, the paint never fully cures.

Dibs on the first co-drive.

No can do, Covid rules.

I have some car work I want to get done by early September before an autocross event.

First, replacing my coilovers which are 1 way, to the 2 way version. They’re Fortune Auto Pro 2 Way which is the same company that my current coilovers are. I got 2nd hand but I had them ship them to Fortune Auto to get them rebuilt. Got them today and they’re purty. I think my biggest hassle will be trying to figure out where to mount the rear external canisters. I really don’t want to mount them on the outside, prefer to somehow get the external canisters in the rear. Read I may have to drill a hole for the canister and get some grommets.

I’ll be going from 10k/12.5k front/rear to 12k/14k. I’ll keep the same ride height and may adjust the camber on the front a tiny bit. Second, got a wetsump oil pan which will help with oil pressures dropping on right handers. Should be pretty straight forward. Surely no leaks…

Third, I replaced the smaller bushing at Loren’s recently on my front control arm. Doing so I noticed one of the rear big bushings has cracked. Informed Superpro(bushing company) and got another set for half off, so I’ll be pulling the control arm off again, yay! New bushings

The perks of having no car payment, right?

Lemme know if you wanna work over here, maybe we can set something up. I usually have Fridays and Saturdays off.

Loren wrote: Tue Aug 15, 2023 10:24 pm Lemme know if you wanna work over here, maybe we can set something up. I usually have Fridays and Saturdays off.

I would fancy the idea but it may sit unfinished if I ran into some issues and I dont think someone would want to drive me back to my place 45 minutes away .

I hear ya. I've always been a fan of "divide and conquer". Never take apart more than you can put back together in the same day or weekend. That's how non-running/driving unfinished projects begin!

Whelp the work is all about done, what a fun couple of weeks working on and off the car. Doing this outside in this Sun and heat is BRUTAL. Basically had to work in short bursts depending when the sun was behind some clouds.

First, pulled the control arms off, again... Had the old bushings pressed out and new ones put in. Installing the control arm back in was a breeze compared to when putting it back on when at Loren's. The front smaller bushing kinda took shape after being fitted the first time so it just was so much easier.

Next pulled all the coilovers out, and then start swapping around parts from my first set to the new set. Also swapped out the original tiny rubber bumpstop that pretty much a hella high rate if it was hit to a progressive bumpstop(the white one). After some measurements and research, I ended up cutting the bumpstop from like 2.7" down to 1.5". The coilover had 4.5" of stroke, so 3 inches of stroke before the new bumpstop would start engaging. Started testing when at full stroke if anything would rub, no rubbing!.

After that worked on removing the oem oil pan with one that has some baffles and holds more oil. Reasoning is due to low oil pressure on long ride handers when having lots of grip. Never done an oil pan swap before but it kinda was a PITA. After all buttoned up, there is a small leak . Not enough that it needs to get pulled and resealed but probably next oil change I will reinstall or honestly have a shop do it. It sucks doing it in the driveway.

OEM Pan Inside the guts of the evo New Pan on

Nice work, sir.
What's going on with the new pan? Looks like lots of missing paint?

I had it ceramic coated. They didn't do a good job covering it up so a lot of fine sand blasting particals got into the pan and couldn't all be removed since the baffles don't come out. Had to have someone cut the pan, clean it out and then weld it back together.

CaptainSquirts wrote:I had it ceramic coated. They didn't do a good job covering it up so a lot of fine sand blasting particals got into the pan and couldn't all be removed since the baffles don't come out. Had to have someone cut the pan, clean it out and then weld it back together.

Damn, that sounds like a major hassle. Looking good, though.