Subaru Retired?

[CaptainSquirts]

Saying that...the Mitsubishi Evolution is a much better platform to work with according to the tuner.

Sounds like its time for an Evo! Oh please don't get an evo. I'm the fastest evo at the event since I'm the only one evo there...

[Evan]

I think I'm done with projects

Is there such a thing? I thought the only option is to try to delay the inevitable next one.

[Tim_M]

Well, I hope another project of this magnitude doesn't happen for another 100K!

Couple more images:

Exedy Stage I HD (15803HD) wear after 21,000 miles (15 - 4000 rpm launches):



Dated image...new engine on hook preparing to insert:



Installed!:



You can almost see the red powder-coated valve covers...

Driving it on the commute tomorrow!

[twistedwankel]

I really need to know this Tim. Maybe Jamie will chime in with his 200k+ race car/daily driver too?

What engine lubricant have you used all these miles/years? Frequency of change miles vs time?

What coolant/% to H20 do you use and how often do you change it/flush?

I've never driven (or owned) a car as long as both of you are able (or have) to. Knock on wood I've never blown an engine yet so I know I'm doing something right. When I fire up a car it goes for a decent drive of approx. 16 miles.

Drew admits to a random yearly oil change but he owns a Foxbody and the radio probably still works to hide ticking.

Doug

[Jamie]

What engine lubricant have you used all these miles/years? Frequency of change miles vs time?

I've found oil usually works best. Anything else and the engine runs hot.

I used plain Quaker State dinosaur juice in the Prelude for several years, then switched over to Valvoline...was just a matter of availability at the time. The Miata's been drinking Valvoline since I bought it. I use Purolator Pure One filters on both of them. In both cases, the change interval is every 3000 miles. I've backed off to every 5000 now on the Prelude, simply because it isn't driven as hard these days (and it's using some between changes). Keep in mind that the car I'm racing is also my daily driver.

I think the change interval has more to do with longevity than the oil itself. Besides lubrication and some cooling, the oil carries dirt and contaminants out of the engine, so frequent changes (including the filter) keep the engine internals from swimming in crap. That's really why I haven't bothered with synthetic -- I can't afford $7/quart and change the oil that frequently. Neither car saw regular driving in really cold weather, so I didn't need the cold-flow characteristics.

What coolant/% to H20 do you use and how often do you change it/flush?

I usually start with a 50-50 mix, but I don't monitor it too closely -- if I have to put anything in the catch tank, it's usually distilled water, so by the time I flush, it's somewhat lower. I flush it every timing belt change (60,000 miles), and change the hoses at every other (120,000 miles). Down here, the main reason I'm putting coolant in is to keep corrosion at bay and lubricate the water pump a bit.

Drew admits to a random yearly oil change but he owns a Foxbody and the radio probably still works to hide ticking.

If it's like a couple of old V8s I owned, he's changing it through the rocker cover, a quart at a time.

[Tim_M]

Similar to what Jamie does...

I splurge on Mobil 1 (Walmart!) its entire life. 3000 mile oil changes. 5W-30 until they came out with 0W-40...marketing has me smitten on the quick oil pressure quality of 0W rating.

I'm religious about oil temp warm up as well-min of 150 degrees.

The Corvette was similar...300 degree oil temps on the road course makes the oil a big deal IMO.

[twistedwankel]

Thank you Tim and Jamie for sharing with all of us what actually works in the real world.
I've never had the balls to race my daily driver (routinely) and for a number of years had a company car so was lucky there too only using a car on evenings and weekends.

It appears many of the racers today double duty their cars so hope they all pay heed to what you two have accomplished!! Very impressive. What you've both managed to save in car payments and repairs has easily covered your entry fees!!

Doug

[CaptainSquirts]

I do oil changes every 3000-3500 miles and my car is a DD. I used amsoil signatures series 10W-30 for a good 40k miles and now using amsoil z-rod 10W-30. At 93k miles right now with no engine issues.

Here is an oil report I had done a couple months ago.

[nathanwilliams617]

How'd the test drive/commute go Tim?

[Tim_M]

Nate: Well, modifications almost always require some fine tuning...the old engine is going back in next weekend.

[Dave]

I really need to know this Tim. Maybe Jamie will chime in with his 200k+ race car/daily driver too?

What engine lubricant have you used all these miles/years? Frequency of change miles vs time?

What coolant/% to H20 do you use and how often do you change it/flush?

I've never driven (or owned) a car as long as both of you are able (or have) to. Knock on wood I've never blown an engine yet so I know I'm doing something right. When I fire up a car it goes for a decent drive of approx. 16 miles.

Drew admits to a random yearly oil change but he owns a Foxbody and the radio probably still works to hide ticking.

Doug

Doug

I was nearly at 240,000 on my DD/Racecar when I finally gave it up. Other than something of my own doing, it ran as good the day I walked away from it, as the day I bought it w/35 mi on the odometer.

I had the radiator flushed once, OEM replaced fluid.
The 6-speed had a factory induced, 3rd gear issue that was fixed via Amsoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid.
And the engine oil of choice was Mobil 1, R2'd @ 5k mi.

These will continue with the Nissan, hoping for as much longevity as the frequently bashed, 90% podium finishing rate Honda provided.

[Native]

Nate: Well, modifications almost always require some fine tuning...the old engine is going back in next weekend.

Dang it!

[nathanwilliams617]

Nate: Well, modifications almost always require some fine tuning...the old engine is going back in next weekend.

Dang it!

+1

[AScoda]

Drew admits to a random yearly oil change but he owns a Foxbody and the radio probably still works to hide ticking.

If it's like a couple of old V8s I owned, he's changing it through the rocker cover, a quart at a time.

No, I just don't put 3000 miles on it in a year.
I usually just try to change it in the spring.

[lddavis91]

Nate: Well, modifications almost always require some fine tuning...the old engine is going back in next weekend.

Dang it!

+1

+2 That really sucks, I really really really hope I have better luck.

[Tim_M]

Well, 400 miles passed on the new engine...tap, tap, tap. Took it to some more experienced folks to listen to...they lean toward valve clearance issues. I lean toward #4 rod bearing failure.

I did a reasonable check on the valve clearance and security of the cam stands...all seemed to be in spec.

I also cut open the oil filter (120 miles on it) and found nothing within.

Instead of running it until it fails, I swapped with the 188,000 mile original engine this weekend.

Not much fun investing all the work with a step backward.

3 hours to pull, ~6 hours to swap the parts over, and 3 hours to reinstall.

Engine fired right up and motivated down the street.

We will see what the 'new' engine is up to...

[twistedwankel]

WOW!!!

I'm just getting over a cold but got thru two autocrosses and two lunch assignments in one weekend using two different cars neither of which has over 65k miles on the engines. I feel blessed.

Three guys have had major issues with cars recently and I will toast them all with as many brewski's tonite. Cheers mates.

Good luck Tim, Les & Loren/Ben.

Doug

[nathanwilliams617]

Yeah, reworking stuff is demotivating especially when you took your time and did it right. I got a scare like that last week. Just got done doing a head gasket job on a pushrod v6, fired it up and tap tap tap. Oh oh did the machine shop jack up the valve job? Then I remembered I took the opportunity to dismantle and clean the lifters while I was in there, they were pumping back up, the tapping cleared up quickly.
Keep us posted Tim

[Solar]

I had a similar issue many years ago on a rebuilt engine, turned out one of the main cap bearing was in backwards and the oil hole didn't line up correctly. Hope your issue isn't a big one, keep us posted.

[Tim_M]

Thanks folks.

I was hoping for only a valvetrain issue (wouldn't require complete disassembly)...the Cosworth heads come with a 'stiffy' spring to support 10,500 rpm...kind of odd they can spec that, but anyway...far more spring pressure than I will need at 8000. No dice.

So the rod bearing is my next concern...complete engine disassembly with new main and rod bearings (only $120 total). Then the machine shop to confirm the clearance and regasket the lump.

I will say it is interesting to see how 400 miles does on the build/parts. Two valve clearances tightened up...I will reset those ($20 a piece for shims!)