Da Groj

Loren wrote:Sounds like a lot of improvement!

If you've had to make a significant extension of a tie-rod, it wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and fully unthread a tie-rod end to verify how much thread you have left. Rule of thumb for anything like that is at least 7 threads engaged. But, for a tie-rod, I like to be closer to the diameter of the tie-rod.

Easy fix if you don't have sufficient threads would be to weld a nut onto the end of the tie-rod end. Unless there's a factory part available that's longer.

so what I think you're saying is do something like

1. mark the tie rod
2. pull wheel off
3. pull tie rod out of spindle.
4. twist tie rod ball joint of theeaded rod
5. count theads or distance to mark to measure safe capacity.

never done this so just checking myself. thanks very much!

Basically, yes.

But, you don't necessarily need to separate the tie-rod from the spindle. (might be easier that way, if it separates easily) You could just crank on the tie-rod as when you're making an adjustment.

And if you get like a half inch or so and haven't run out of threads yet... unless you just want to know "how much more is there", you could stop there. A half inch is plenty, and you're probably not going to extend it any more than where it's already at, anyway.

yep. I could try your thought there. just make sure there's enough tie rod thread capacity to be safe, with the ball joints at their min.

then additional camber could be safely added through the top mounts as it causes toe in (reduces to out) on its own.

I would want to keep unthreading the tie rod before considering inceeasing neg camber through the ball joints as that would further test needed tie rod length.

well looks like 15 threads here to work with.

edit
maybe it's plenty. that's a 24mm lock nut. the ball joint will be 6mm further out when fully extended.

Looks like plenty to me.

The old rule of thumb min. was 1 x diameter engagement for racing nuts same grade as threaded part. Kind of makes sense. Remember the Chinese "fake" grade 8 steering knuckle bolts on Mack trucks put on by the factory that let go? Semi scary.

https://fieldfastener.com/2013/04/23/ru ... d-joining/

thanks guys!

The mk6 people who did the TT lower control arms used mk4 golf r32 tie rods I believe, not sure if that will work on an mqb platform or how much threads of engagement there was on it.

But it looks like there might be enough threads of engagement.

aw614 wrote:The mk6 people who did the TT lower control arms used mk4 golf r32 tie rods I believe, not sure if that will work on an mqb platform or how much threads of engagement there was on it.

But it looks like there might be enough threads of engagement.

yeah I think it will work out.

I'm looking forward to previewing my "camber capacity": ball joints out, ball joints out + camber plates in. The bubble gage only goes to -6

Thanks to you for bringing this Audi TT arm mod to my attention.

mymomswagon wrote:The bubble gage only goes to -6

You need one that goes to 11...

Native wrote:

mymomswagon wrote:The bubble gage only goes to -6

You need one that goes to 11...

exactly! when you need that extra, to push you off the cliff

We could also call it Ludicrous Mode.

I think Ludicrous Mode would have do be fully dynamic camber. Maybe a hydraulic actuator to push the lower ball joint out as as lateral force increases?

Heli arc the holes shut, use the balljoint as a pattern and move them out another 1/16 to 3/8 of an inch..depending on how much room you have.

Also. make sure yuou write all this down so the next guy that owns the car is not messed up 5 years from now when he takes it to a shop.

Loren wrote:I think Ludicrous Mode would have do be fully dynamic camber. Maybe a hydraulic actuator to push the lower ball joint out as as lateral force increases?

Now we're talking... check the caster, at some point the car may gain camber if you add enough caster to it, measure it around 20 degrees from straight.

blacksheep-1 wrote:

Loren wrote:I think Ludicrous Mode would have do be fully dynamic camber. Maybe a hydraulic actuator to push the lower ball joint out as as lateral force increases?

Now we're talking... check the caster, at some point the car may gain camber if you add enough caster to it, measure it around 20 degrees from straight.

can't easily measure caster at home...okay I'm lazy as well but stock is around 7-7.5. Vorshlag plates are set to +1 caster and other folks who did this tt control arm mod claim and show with alignment sheets about +1 caster at min ball joint extension.

compared to the stock arm, the three bolts on the tt arm for ball joint attachment is a slight counterclockwise rotation outward. I suppose it's possible that I'll see a little more caster as the ball joint extends to it's max.

I'm thinking about raising the car close to stock height as it would steepen the control arms a little, raise the roll center, and I think give it more dynamic camber and less static minimum camber for the DD stuff. Obviously it would give up cg.

I might be able to raise roll center with aluminum GTI spindles but haven't had a chance to measure and confirm my hypothesis that they're taller than the standard Golf spindles.
Not a cheap improvement though as other things would need changing out.

I guess all this proves I've been bitten by the AX bug.

Yesterday, I took a stab at adjusting the ball joints "all the way out"...then set toe close to zero, drove it around, fine tuned the toe and measured camber:

Pics are passenger side, driver side, passenger side with 20° turn as blacksheep suggested.

Not to be a camber whiner / hoarder, but I was expecting more static camber as the ball joints appeared to have about 6mm of play. Perhaps I left a little on the table with adjustment as I did not disconnect anything other than the wheels and the fasteners to the arm (and front axle was off the ground). My top mounts are easier to adjust compared to the ball joints.

Driving around on its all season 500 tw 195 65r15s, it feels really good Turn-in feels pretty awesome...hey just give more steering input to tighten up that line.

Ride quality is still decent. Can't wait to play at the dawg track with better tires and these arms.

Holy negativity, Camber Man!

Native wrote:Holy negativity, Camber Man!

thought you would like it, Foot Down Man!