CHEAP Time Trial and track school @ ERS

[Loren]

Not impossible... We'll see. I'm trying to see if I can come up with something for that using RFID.

Okay... not impossible... but we're NOT going to do it. It's a lot of work to time every car on track for every lap, and competely not necessary for practice sessions. As Jeff said, if someone wants lap times from a practice session, they need to find their own method of timing.

[treekiller]

we are trying to keep these events affordable. I'm sure every track we visit will have an AMB transponder based timing system, since that's standard with most clubs. but @ almost $400 for each transponder it defeats the purpose of being "affordable" and besides when people are learning a new track it's best to concentrate on the track, the times will just come.

Jeff

[Charles]

Reg'd and paid via paypal........

[treekiller]

Thanks Everyone we passed our prerequisite 20 entries.

I could use another instructor if anyone is interested, shoot me your info.

[Loren]

That sounds a little too "Final".

We've reached our 20-entry target to commit to doing the school event, but we still need more entries to break even and not lose money on the event!

Registration is still open, and the rate doesn't go up until tomorrow. If you get in today, it will be $20 cheaper than if you get in tomorrow. However, registration will still be open for another 3 weeks or so.

[Solar]

I know two people that are interested, I'll let them know about the $20 discount if they sign up today.

[Loren]

I know two people that are interested, I'll let them know about the $20 discount if they sign up today.

To be clear, the $180 base price is what is already discounted by $20. That goes up to $200 tomorrow.

Tell all your friends. We've decided to limit ourselves to 16 students, so there are 6 student slots available. Plenty of solo driver slots available. And, as Jeff mentioned, we still need some instructors if you know of anyone who is qualified.

[Dave-ROR]

I'm still not sure if I'm in or not, nor do I have any idea what car I would be driving

I would likely have the S2000 still so I suppose I could use that.

Oh well, $20 extra isn't too much, I'll be lazy and wait

[Loren]

Yeah, it's barely half a tank of gas these days.

[Alizarin]

Yeah, it's barely half a tank of gas these days.

Add about $23 per tank for me these days, now that I'm running 2 gallons of toluene per tank. :shock:

[treekiller]

That'll make up for the $12 a tank I save by running Ethanol..

Hey Kenny. if you don't have the Scooby Sorted out by the school your welcome to drive my car since I expect to see you there regardless.. Loren will be bringing his Yaris (I think) and I'll be instructing so the car will just be sitting, no one has rented it thus far.

and if your Helping with the TT timing I'll call it fair.

[Solar]

What's a good brake pad for a road course? I've been looking at the Hawk Black and Blue 9012's any other good suggestions? I'm not worried about rotor wear or noise since I'll be changing the rotors out for track day.

I'm also planning on flushing the brake fluid, I've heard a ton of differnt brands that I should use. Advice?

Thanks, B

EDIT: I just saw Jeff's post earlier in this thread about using EBC Yellows and Motul RBF600 fluid, any other suggestions?

[Loren]

Even full race brake pads won't harm your rotors in a track environment. When they're at operating temp, they don't wear the rotors. It's only in street use where they never reach operating temp that they grind away at the rotors.

For brake fluid, you simply want a high-temp fluid. The higher the temp, the higher the cost. I've been fond of ATE brake fluid. Pretty high temp, reasonable cost. There are many other options.

[kickslop]

Reg'd last week, just now seeing the FAST thread on it

Glad to see some of us are making it up there.

[Charles]

What's a good brake pad for a road course? I've been looking at the Hawk Black and Blue 9012's any other good suggestions? EDIT: I just saw Jeff's post earlier in this thread about using EBC Yellows and Motul RBF600 fluid, any other suggestions?

I'll be running the Hawk HP+'s I have on the car now.

I use Valvoline brake fluid available at any autoparts store.

High dry boiling point similar to the more costly fluids...

[img]http://www.partsamerica.com/product_ima ... lv/057.jpg[/img]


http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... yCode=3222

[Loren]

There's a good comparison chart in this article:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/BrakeFl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... rison.html

I like the ATE Blue because it has the best "wet" boiling point for the money. I'm a "set it and forget it" kind of guy. If I flush with ATE and do a good bleed, I pretty much know I'm good for a year.

[Solar]

Good info guys.

Charles are the HP+ the same as the Hawk Blacks? I have HPS pads on now but was told I'd probably start getting fade after a few hot laps. I was planning on either the Hawk Blacks or the EBC Yellows.


Is the Motul 600 DOT 3 or 4? (Just as long as it's not DOT 5). From the chart Loren posted looks like the Motul or the ATE would be the best for the buck fluid. I'm not sure what type of fluid temp I can expect out there, and I have to drive my car home in one piece, so I want to make sure I have a good fluid.

[Loren]

It has been my experience that brake fade doesn't happen instantly. As long as you have your wits about you and SLOW DOWN (or better yet, pit in) at the first hint of a problem, you'll be fine. Boiled fluid will present itself as a mushy pedal. Overheated pads will give you a rock hard pedal that doesn't slow the car. But, in either case, you'll know it's happening before your brakes go completely away.

My point is: Yeah, you want good brakes. But, for a casual track day, you don't need to go overboard. If you go out with less-than-adequate stock brakes, you might have to learn to "budget" your brake usage... which isn't necessarily a bad thing to learn.

[Solar]

It has been my experience that brake fade doesn't happen instantly. As long as you have your wits about you and SLOW DOWN (or better yet, pit in) at the first hint of a problem, you'll be fine. Boiled fluid will present itself as a mushy pedal. Overheated pads will give you a rock hard pedal that doesn't slow the car. But, in either case, you'll know it's happening before your brakes go completely away.

My point is: Yeah, you want good brakes. But, for a casual track day, you don't need to go overboard. If you go out with less-than-adequate stock brakes, you might have to learn to "budget" your brake usage... which isn't necessarily a bad thing to learn.

Point taken, thank you.

I've always been one to over prepare,(Boy Scout), I'd rather have to much than to little when I'm away from home. As you said though, there's no reason to go over board. I guess my plan will be a good set of pads, new fluid, and new set of front tires, that should keep me driving and safe.

[Native]

another vote for ATE. Use it all the time (like Loren said - set it and forget it). Withstood all day at Sebring in August. Flush with Blue or gold, then switch the next time - the only difference is the color so you can tell when it's fully flushed. I've not tried other performance brands, but my experience with ATE being what it is, I probably won't unless I can't get it for some reason.