Need a Mechanic

[Loren]

I normally do most of my own mechanic work, especially on Miatas because I know my way around them. This will be the first time I've hired a mechanic to do anything beyond change tires on my car in probably a decade or more.

The task:
Upper and lower ball joints on a 1991 S10 2WD pickup. I've bought the parts... and then decided I don't want to do the job.

So, if you know someone who can be trusted to do that job for a reasonable cost, point me to 'em. I'd like to keep this "in the family" if possible. I don't mind driving a little ways to have someone "known" do the work. And I don't mind paying someone who's "not a professional" to do it as long as they are well-equipped and know what they're doing.

[WAFlowers]

http://www.supremeautocare.net/ in Safety Harbor.

I personally know the head mechanic - Tom Henrikson - and have for many years. A very good guy. He's the only one to touch The Jag other than me.

[puncturina]

We go to Dan the Mechanic who is over by Race Track Road, on Douglas Rd. in Oldsmar. He is a Porsche/BMW imports guy, but very fair. We have also used Duncan, also on Douglas. Dan is at 813 818-0750 and Bill and Scott are at 813-855-7646. I'm sure you'll get plenty of other recommendations from more knowledgeable people, but at least these guys are close.

[Solar]

Did you get just the ball joints or a set of control arms with ball joints ? If you got just ball joints, are they the press in type or bolt in type ? I've done a fair share of ball joints in my day, but if they need to be pressed in, and you want them done correctly, I would need access to a h-frame press.

[Loren]

Thanks for the tips, y'all!

Brian, the lower ball joint is a press-in. The upper is a bolt-in, but the stock one is riveted in, adding to the fun. I believe they are all original 190,000 mile parts.

[Solar]

The riveted one is easy to do, a grinder or air hammer makes quick work of them. Removing the lower ones are easy, couple smacks with a hammer and they're out. As far as installing them. I've seen people use a ball joint press on the lower ones, I guess you could "borrow one" from a parts store. With a ball joint press, you don't have to remove the lower control arm, but with 190,000 miles, I would remove the control arm and replace the bushings while you're in there.

If you can't find a mechanic to do them, I can help you with them.

[Loren]

Thanks, Brian.

Trying not to go overboard with it. My target for this truck is about another 3-4 years of "beater truck" use out of it. By then, the rust will have taken over and I'd probably be best to sell it while it's still a running vehicle and pick up one with lower mileage.

But, the front end is really clunky and I'm sure it's mostly ball joints. Need to take care of that. I've already replaced the shocks and outer tie-rod ends, all of the other linkages feel tight.

[Solar]

Okay, let me know.

If they do need replacing, you can get a set for less than $20 a side.

[twistedwankel]

Okay, let me know.

If they do need replacing, you can get a set for less than $20 a side.

Brian....you really need to move to Hernando County. I would give you $20 just to watch me mow the grass. If I could buy Citrus Rob pizza's and give you $20 bills to help him my cars would be custom by now and really ass fast. Actually I'd own a really nice Factory Five Replica or two.

Doug

[Solar]

Okay, let me know.

If they do need replacing, you can get a set for less than $20 a side.

Brian....you really need to move to Hernando County. I would give you $20 just to watch me mow the grass. If I could buy Citrus Rob pizza's and give you $20 bills to help him my cars would be custom by now and really ass fast. Actually I'd own a really nice Factory Five Replica or two.

Doug

I will be up in your area tomorrow morning, should be free by noon, what time you plan on mowing the lawn ?