LoCost Mini Car/Truck?

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Loren Williams
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LoCost Mini Car/Truck?

Postby Loren » Tue Nov 07, 2023 12:34 pm

I've been on a roll brainstorming ideas, figured I'd document them somewhere. And that's sort of the point of this forum. I don't even care if anyone else reads it at this point, I just want a place to put down my thoughts so I can find them later!

So, I've been dreaming of maybe building a LoCost sports car for decades. Since I first heard of the concept.

And since I quite autocrossing, I'm getting more into welding and fabricating as a hobby. Couple that with all the crazy autocross fab projects that I've done over the past 10 years, and I think I might be ready to tackle a project like this.

Last night, I caught a video of someone doing an engine swap on an old King Midget car. They doubled the HP from like 9 to 18 or something like that. But, it's such a small and light car that it was an absolute blast to drive, and still capable of 70 mph. This inspired me.

But, I'm past "open top motoring". Did it for many, many years. Wrecked my hearing with wind noise. Got tired of being sun-baked. Don't have any hair to blow in the breeze. Been there, done that. So, if I build something, it will be a coupe.

Lots of brainstorming has led me to this:

Rear mid-engine LoCost using a complete 2012+ Mirage front subframe and suspension in the back. 78 hp, 5 speed manual, VERY lightweight, simple, reliable and cheap. And I can run the stock AC compressor mated to a Vintage Air setup to have AC. I'll mount that unit on the rear firewall just between the seats.

The vehicle will serve three purposes: 1) local 2-seat runabout, 2) TRUCK, 3) occasional corner-carver.

I want to design it such that I can put a removable full-size roof rack on it, mounted at the corners. I want that to be 4.5 x 8.5 feet to accommodate 4x8 sheets of whatever. The car needs to approximately fit under that. That's right, I want the whole car to be no longer than 9 feet (just like my Smart car), and not much wider than 5 feet.

I've always thought that the tail lights on the back of a US-market Nissan Cube were cool, and would look great on the back of a sports car. So, I want to put the rear bumper and lights from a Cube on it, probably trim the fender bulges off of it and slab-side it forward from there.

Since I'm using Cube tails, makes sense to use Cube headlights. Conveniently, they have side markers and turn signals all in that one housing, and the styling matches the tails. I'll mount them lower than the Cube, in-line with the tail lights. May or may not use a partial Cube front bumper to surround them.

Front suspension and steering remain undecided. But, I'll probably source some circle track parts (S-10 style A arms) and a typical Pinto manual steering rack or something. I need to research that.

I should be able to duplicate the wheelbase and length of my Smart car. About 75" wheelbase, and 9 feet overall length.

Still very much in the idea phase. But, if I can pull it off, I'll have a versatile car that I can drive around town, AND do light homeowner "truck" duty when needed, all while taking up about half of my side of the garage. (I really like how the Smart car fits in the garage... so much more space for activities!)

The net result should be probably under 1200 pounds with 78 hp and around 80 ft/lbs. Should get over 60 mpg. It won't be "fast", but considerably faster than the Mirage... around 15 lbs/hp should be in "mildly boosted 1.8 Miata" territory. More than adequate for me to run around in. And it will be low and light, so very nimble.

My latest thought was to use a Miata windshield/frame and a Miata hardtop to GREATLY simplify the construction and appearance of the top of the car. But, of course, while a trashed donor Miata to get a windshield frame from would be cheap, a hard top would likely be over $1k. So, I might have to reconsider that. Maybe I'll just buy a cheap Mirage donor car and use the windshield frame and partial roof from that? It's actually got a nicely raked windshield, and the width would be right.
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
Loren Williams
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LoCost Mini Car/Truck?

Postby Loren » Sat Nov 11, 2023 2:24 am

Been looking at a lot of LoCost ideas. There are rear engine books/plans available, and even a full kit available for doing a Cobalt based build.

I'm coming to two conclusions: 1. This will cost more than I want it to if I want to do it right. 2. I'm slow, it would take me at least 4-5 years of working on it 8-10 hours per week to complete it. And I know me... that's about how much I'd work on it.

But, I just came up with another idea that would have a similar end result (not as light, fast or fun to drive, but practical). I could buy a cheap used Smart car. They're all over for $3-4k. And even $1500ish for ones with bad engines. I could buy one with a bad engine and swap in a proper manual trans Mirage drivetrain. Would be a performance upgrade for that car!

Oh, I didn't finish the thought. Cheap used Smart, and replace the stock bumper supports with a bolt-on tube that would stick out the sides of the bumper covers. Cut holes in the bumper covers, and the car would still look complete. Then, I could mount my full-size 4x8 roof rack from those supports.

Would be a little taller than I had in mind, but would do the job of being a "city runabout" and "truck", while maintaining a tiny footprint.
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
Loren Williams
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LoCost Mini Car/Truck?

Postby Loren » Sun Nov 12, 2023 1:14 pm

Better idea has surfaced.

MG Midget. Low, light, small, super-fun. Reliable? (well-maintained, they can be) Simple, easy to work on, cheap and available parts. And cheap to buy.

Bolt on bumpers! Can easily fab up a steel bumper with receivers to mount a roof rack.

Better than the Smart, because on the smart, the rack would be 5' off the ground. The Midget would only be 4' off the ground. And, of course, better in every way because LBC!

I think I'm onto something. Something stupid, as usual. But, something.

Aesthetics aside, I can't think of why nobody has ever done this before. Who says a mini pickup bed has to be BEHIND the passenger compartment? It'll look weird. But, if it's removable, it's only there when I need it.
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
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LoCost Mini Car/Truck?

Postby Jamie » Mon Nov 13, 2023 6:55 pm

Loren wrote:Aesthetics aside, I can't think of why nobody has ever done this before. Who says a mini pickup bed has to be BEHIND the passenger compartment? It'll look weird. But, if it's removable, it's only there when I need it.
You've described a roof box attached to a rack.
Image
Or an overhead frame some trucks mount to carry long lengths of pipe or lumber.
Image
Load-limited, because the weight's up high -- fine for a few 2x4s, no good for concrete blocks or pavers. You'll want to be careful on how you tie down your 4x8 plywood sheet, too, lest your Midget have illusions it's a Tiger Moth.
Jamie
'01 Miata, '92 Prelude Si, '88 Alpina B10/3.5, '63 Suburban
Speed Demon Racing
Loren Williams
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LoCost Mini Car/Truck?

Postby Loren » Tue Nov 14, 2023 12:49 am

Bingo. That pickup is very similar to what I'm thinking. Though a little less bulky.

This idea has really cemented itself. I'm actually shopping for a Midget now.

There's a "barn find" for $1800 that looks pretty good. Tag expired in 2003. Nobody's tried to start it, so who knows if it runs. It needs brakes, of course. It's got some rust, but not a lot. Looks complete, straight, and fairly nice otherwise. But, by the time I put brakes on it, tires, replace the trunk lid and LF fender (rust), put a new top on it, do all the fluids, and hoses and such... I'd be into it for at least $3200 plus a TON of time... and it's surely got more rust.

There's another one for $5200 (that started at $6300 and keeps coming down... I can probably get it for $4800, but it's absolutely worth $5k). It looks SUPER clean. Pretty sure it's original paint. Zero rust, not even under the hood. Needs a top, but just because the back window is yellow. Could use some carpet. But, otherwise, nearly perfect! That's the one I'm going to try to go look at. Even though I'm not looking for "perfect", the less rust, the better. And I'd much rather buy a car that I can drive home.

I need another car like I need another hole in my head. But, I'm currently without a manual transmission car. And that's just wrong. Maybe I'll sell the Smart if the Midget seems reliable enough. (not like I don't have two other vehicles available at any time, anyway... I don't "need" a car at all)
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.

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