So far all I've done is buy some ajustable Konis and swapped the stock seats for stock 1999 seats. Any input would be helpful . Thanks Todb HK racing
E Stock Miata
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Tod --
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E Stock Miata
Hi F.A.S.T. members, I have a 1994 miata R w/150000 miles, runs good and looks good. I would like to make a competive SCCA E stock auto-x car. I know a lot of you have a lot of experience making miata's fast.
So far all I've done is buy some ajustable Konis and swapped the stock seats for stock 1999 seats. Any input would be helpful . Thanks Todb HK racing
So far all I've done is buy some ajustable Konis and swapped the stock seats for stock 1999 seats. Any input would be helpful . Thanks Todb HK racing
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Loren Williams
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Re: E Stock Miata
You talking SCCA E-Stock?
If so, you need to put the original seats back in.
The hot stock class for the R-package used to be custom-valved Konis and... well, that's about it. As much camber as you can get in the rear, half a degree less in the front. Caster to make you happy, 5-6 degrees or more is possible, but steering is HEAVY with a manual rack... I found I liked less than 4 degrees, feather light, but almost no self-centering. (steer in, steer out!) Zero toe in the rear, and zero toe in front for street... but as much as 1/2" total front toe for autox (I knew guys who would just adjust one tie-rod when they changed their tires to get the toe out, then dial it back in for the street).
Not much you need to do to an R for stock class. You could do some option deletes to get the weight down. Remove AC if it has it, radio, speakers, but not much else. Factory R bar is 1mm larger than the standard one, as I recall. You might like a larger front bar depending on your driving style, but the car doesn't really "need" it.
You can do a cat-back exhaust and free up a very few horses. Hardly worth doing IMO.
Lightest factory-size wheels you can get (94-97 "hollow spokes" are around 11 pounds, 14" BBS are like 8.5 pounds) and the best rubber you can get to fit.
Then... drive it like you stole it!
I guess with a Miata that old, you should probably think about bushings. But, Spec Miata guys like to leave the "aged" stock bushings in because they are stiffish, sort of like poly bushings. DO consider a fresh set of factory bump stops, though. There used to be a couple different versions available, but I think the only ones you can get now are the "later" ones, which were the ones used on the R package. Stock sprung Miatas corner ON the bump stops, so this is important for good predictable handling.
What did I forget?
If so, you need to put the original seats back in.
The hot stock class for the R-package used to be custom-valved Konis and... well, that's about it. As much camber as you can get in the rear, half a degree less in the front. Caster to make you happy, 5-6 degrees or more is possible, but steering is HEAVY with a manual rack... I found I liked less than 4 degrees, feather light, but almost no self-centering. (steer in, steer out!) Zero toe in the rear, and zero toe in front for street... but as much as 1/2" total front toe for autox (I knew guys who would just adjust one tie-rod when they changed their tires to get the toe out, then dial it back in for the street).
Not much you need to do to an R for stock class. You could do some option deletes to get the weight down. Remove AC if it has it, radio, speakers, but not much else. Factory R bar is 1mm larger than the standard one, as I recall. You might like a larger front bar depending on your driving style, but the car doesn't really "need" it.
You can do a cat-back exhaust and free up a very few horses. Hardly worth doing IMO.
Lightest factory-size wheels you can get (94-97 "hollow spokes" are around 11 pounds, 14" BBS are like 8.5 pounds) and the best rubber you can get to fit.
Then... drive it like you stole it!
I guess with a Miata that old, you should probably think about bushings. But, Spec Miata guys like to leave the "aged" stock bushings in because they are stiffish, sort of like poly bushings. DO consider a fresh set of factory bump stops, though. There used to be a couple different versions available, but I think the only ones you can get now are the "later" ones, which were the ones used on the R package. Stock sprung Miatas corner ON the bump stops, so this is important for good predictable handling.
What did I forget?
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
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Tod --
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Re: E Stock Miata
Thanks Porfessor,
I can only get -1.2deg. in the front, I had the rear at -1.9deg. and did not like it. But it may have been good if I had toe out in the front,that sounds like a winner Thanks !
Last time I had custom konis it took 3 months to get them back! But I will check that out .
I always drive like I stole it :shock:
Thanks HK-Racing Todb
I can only get -1.2deg. in the front, I had the rear at -1.9deg. and did not like it. But it may have been good if I had toe out in the front,that sounds like a winner Thanks !
Last time I had custom konis it took 3 months to get them back! But I will check that out .
I always drive like I stole it :shock:
Thanks HK-Racing Todb
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Re: E Stock Miata
S2000 too fast for you?
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Re: E Stock Miata
According to the Sarasota police, there's a reason for that....TodB wrote:I always drive like I stole it :shock:
So I understand you sold the S2K? Or just loaning it out?
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Re: E Stock Miata
Thats pretty typical.TodB wrote:I can only get -1.2deg. in the front, I had the rear at -1.9deg.
Be specific, what didn't you like about it?and did not like it. But it may have been good if I had toe out in the front,that sounds like a winner
As I recall, the hot setup was to degas them (if you've ever changed really old worn out Miata shocks with stockish replacements, you know that the gas pressure in the shocks can make the car ride 1/2-3/4" taller!), and give them about 20% more rebound damping than the standard Konis.Last time I had custom konis it took 3 months to get them back! But I will check that out .
But, if you go with Koni, those guys will KNOW exactly how you need to be setup for a stock Miata.
I know you do!... and you know that's the most important part of the equation.I always drive like I stole it :shock:
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
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Tod --
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- Location:
- sarasota fl
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Re: E Stock Miata
Be specific, what didn't you like about it?
I like a loose or over steer car , that helps to rotate the car to me. With -1.9deg camber in the rear it wanted to push or under steer. If it had .25deg toe out it may rotate better. It may take more than one try to get the car where I like it. Some people can make any car fast but I got to work at it.
So I understand you sold the S2K? Or just loaning it out
I sold the H.K. Honda to Bob Tamandli or should I say the Honda formerly as Helly Kitty Honda . Bob was looking for a car... I got one thats not driven much ....the deal was made. I'm sad to see it go but it went to a good home ... I ask Bob " Hey can I drive your new car sometime ? " His respnose was "hahaha heck NO ! "
Anyone can be fast in a S2000 ........ it takes real skill to be fast in a MiataS2000 too fast for you?
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Re: E Stock Miata
Gotcha. Yeah, the typically recommended camber "split" is .5 degrees more in the rear. If you were running .7 degrees more, that was way too much. If you like the car loose, you might even want more like .4 or .3. (and some people have been known to run equal camber all around... it all depends on the rest of your setup and your driving style)TodB wrote:I like a loose or over steer car , that helps to rotate the car to me. With -1.9deg camber in the rear it wanted to push or under steer.
I'd set the rear to about -1.8 and try like hell to coax a little more camber out of the front. Reducing caster will free up some static camber in the front, btw. You should be able to get to -1.4 in the front if your alignment tech knows what he's doing and tries really hard... and nothing's bent.
Do I need to say it?Anyone can be fast in a S2000 ........ it takes real skill to be fast in a Miata
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
-
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- Drives: Whatever has more miles than anything on the grid
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Re: E Stock Miata
We need to get Dan and a good alignment rack in the same shop again.Loren wrote:You should be able to get to -1.4 in the front if your alignment tech knows what he's doing....
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