At the BMW autocross last weekend I cooked my front pads to the point that there was smoke billowing form the wheel wells so I'm thinkin I might need to upgrade my pads. It's a 1990 mustang that I only autocross and possibly a track day soon. I'm leaning towards the Hawk HP plus manly because I'm not concerned with noise or brake dust (if you have seen my mustang you would know I'm not worried about dust) I just want the best performing brake pad I can get for less then $100.
bye the way stock calipers and rotors
More brake pad qustions
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Chris Baron
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More brake pad qustions
Chris
S4
1999 miata
1989 CORVETTE (sold) 1995 CORVETTE (sold) 1990 MUSTANG (sold) 1997 TRANS-AM WS6 (sold) 1999 MUSTANG (sold) 1988 HONDA CRX (sold) 2000 MUSTANG(sold) 1999 miata
S4
1999 miata
1989 CORVETTE (sold) 1995 CORVETTE (sold) 1990 MUSTANG (sold) 1997 TRANS-AM WS6 (sold) 1999 MUSTANG (sold) 1988 HONDA CRX (sold) 2000 MUSTANG(sold) 1999 miata
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Loren Williams
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Re: More brake pad qustions
That BMW course was particularly hard on brakes, especially in a car with really quick acceleration such as yours. (but even in my Yaris... I was smelling brakes at the end of every run, and was glad I had EBC's on there!) You were probably braking from 70 to 50, 70 to 50, 70 to 35, 80 to 50, 70 to 30 and then 60 to 0. (and I'm being conservative with your speeds, I was topping out at 66 in the Yaris... your car is WAY faster!)
HP Plus might be a good "multi-purpose" pad for something like a Miata. Light, and not really fast. I don't think they'd be up to the task on your car. You need a real track pad for the kind of abuse you put them through.
If you go to Sebring, keep in mind that a SLOW car reaches 90-110 mph in 5 places on the track in each 3-minute lap. In your car, I'd expect 150 on the back straight (braking down to 70ish for T-17), at least 120 on the front straight (slowing to 80ish for T1), 110+ coming into the hairpin (slowing to 50ish), 110+ coming into T10 (slowing to 50ish) and probably 120ish coming into T14 (slowing to 60ish by the time you reach T16). Don't take chances with your brakes if you're taking a fast car to Sebring!
Hawk makes some good track pads, as does EBC and Carbotech and a few others. Brand isn't important. Specs are important.
Get some brake cooling ducts in there, too. Airflow is good.
There's also something to be said for learning a little bit of brake moderation. Some tracks (and autox courses) are really hard on brakes, but you can help by not using the brakes as much. Lift early and brake less or not at all where possible. Brake hard only where absolutely necessary. A lot of times, learning such techniques will smooth out your driving and actually give you faster lap times. Less brake wear and faster times... win-win!
HP Plus might be a good "multi-purpose" pad for something like a Miata. Light, and not really fast. I don't think they'd be up to the task on your car. You need a real track pad for the kind of abuse you put them through.
If you go to Sebring, keep in mind that a SLOW car reaches 90-110 mph in 5 places on the track in each 3-minute lap. In your car, I'd expect 150 on the back straight (braking down to 70ish for T-17), at least 120 on the front straight (slowing to 80ish for T1), 110+ coming into the hairpin (slowing to 50ish), 110+ coming into T10 (slowing to 50ish) and probably 120ish coming into T14 (slowing to 60ish by the time you reach T16). Don't take chances with your brakes if you're taking a fast car to Sebring!
Hawk makes some good track pads, as does EBC and Carbotech and a few others. Brand isn't important. Specs are important.
Get some brake cooling ducts in there, too. Airflow is good.
There's also something to be said for learning a little bit of brake moderation. Some tracks (and autox courses) are really hard on brakes, but you can help by not using the brakes as much. Lift early and brake less or not at all where possible. Brake hard only where absolutely necessary. A lot of times, learning such techniques will smooth out your driving and actually give you faster lap times. Less brake wear and faster times... win-win!
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
-
Freakin' Drew
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Re: More brake pad qustions
Keep in mind---No anti-lock brakes. A grabbier pad may mean more flat spotted tires.
Loren wrote:Freakin' Drew and his freakin' Mustang.
dan wrote:Freakin' Drew and his freakin' Miata.
Rawkkrawler wrote:Freakin’ Drew and his OTHER freakin’ Mustang!
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Loren Williams
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Re: More brake pad qustions
Race pad doesn't necessarily mean grabbier (though it is a factor to consider), the big thing is higher heat capacity.AScoda wrote:Keep in mind---No anti-lock brakes. A grabbier pad may mean more flat spotted tires.
Most people adapt pretty quickly to a grippier pad and learn to apply less brake pressure. With the tires he's running, I don't think he'll have any trouble at all.
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
-
Freakin' Drew
- Notorious
- Drives: Bewsted and 'squirted
- Location:
- Tampa, Florida
- Joined: December 2006
- Posts: 939
- First Name: Freakin'
- Last Name: Drew
- Favorite Car: Bewsted and 'squirted
- Location: Tampa, Florida
Re: More brake pad qustions
It's quite easy to wreck even sticky tires. I corded a 3 month old V710 locking up a front wheel. A $180.00 goof.
Perhaps you underestimate the destructive power of the Mustang! Yellow_Colorz_PDT_08
Perhaps you underestimate the destructive power of the Mustang! Yellow_Colorz_PDT_08
Loren wrote:Freakin' Drew and his freakin' Mustang.
dan wrote:Freakin' Drew and his freakin' Miata.
Rawkkrawler wrote:Freakin’ Drew and his OTHER freakin’ Mustang!
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Loren Williams
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- Safety Harbor
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Re: More brake pad qustions
Well, really... it's a lesson everyone learns. I trashed a brand new set of Pirellis at an autocross once by flat spotting them. Did it on one single turn, and it was completely avoidable. Absolutely no need for me to stand on the brakes and scrub those tires for 50 feet. Since then, I'm more cognizant of locking up tires. I bet you are, too!
It was an expensive lesson, about at $400 set of tires. But, I think what drove the point home more than that was the fact that I spent the next 8 months thump-thump-thumping around on square tires. (it was particularly annoying when the two flat-spotted front tires got in synch with each other!)
It was an expensive lesson, about at $400 set of tires. But, I think what drove the point home more than that was the fact that I spent the next 8 months thump-thump-thumping around on square tires. (it was particularly annoying when the two flat-spotted front tires got in synch with each other!)
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
-
Chris Baron
- Well-Known
- Drives: white Mustang,Black TA,99 Red Mustang(gone) CRX Y.
- Location:
- Land O Lakes
- Joined: February 2010
- Posts: 305
- First Name: Chris
- Last Name: Baron
- Favorite Car: white Mustang,Black TA,99 Red Mustang(gone) CRX Y.
- Location: Land O Lakes
Re: More brake pad qustions
installed a set of Hawk hp plus on the front will I was doing that I noticed 1 of my header tubes had a pinch in it like it got hit then I noticed one of the welds on the exhaust hangers was broke of leaving a nice hole in the pipe then I realized this was all caused bye the bolt's on my transmission being lose.
So what I'm saying is tighten up your lose bolts
So what I'm saying is tighten up your lose bolts
Chris
S4
1999 miata
1989 CORVETTE (sold) 1995 CORVETTE (sold) 1990 MUSTANG (sold) 1997 TRANS-AM WS6 (sold) 1999 MUSTANG (sold) 1988 HONDA CRX (sold) 2000 MUSTANG(sold) 1999 miata
S4
1999 miata
1989 CORVETTE (sold) 1995 CORVETTE (sold) 1990 MUSTANG (sold) 1997 TRANS-AM WS6 (sold) 1999 MUSTANG (sold) 1988 HONDA CRX (sold) 2000 MUSTANG(sold) 1999 miata
-
Steve --
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Re: More brake pad qustions
Dang Chris. Maybe you ought check the lugnuts! 
Steven Frank
Class M3 Miata
Proud disciple of the "Push Harder, Suck Less" School of Autocross
______________
I'll get to it. Eventually...
Class M3 Miata
Proud disciple of the "Push Harder, Suck Less" School of Autocross
______________
I'll get to it. Eventually...
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