I agree with Tim. This topic is more widely debated than women types, Ginger or MaryAnn, etc. So I ended up using 6 qts of Mobil 1 10w30 plus 11 oz of Rislone's new Zinc ZDDP additive plus 5oz of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stablilizer with a new K&N filer.Tim_M wrote:This has got to be an offshoot of the most discussed topic on the internet.![]()
I can't say definitely of anything when it comes to what is what.
I believe in 3000 mile oil changes though using Mobil 1 and factory filters...unless it is a BMW engine that requires Castrol TWS ($14 a liter!) and 9 of those on each change...then I increase it to 5000 miles (twice as much oil than many engines I figure).
I ran 5W-30 Mobil 1 in the Corvette since day one...that engine had 55K on it when I sold it...old style LT4 with 300 degree oil temp max on road course. No problems at 7200 rpm. I always did require 150 oil temp before getting on it.
Our Subaru is similar...5W-30 M1 since day one (ok at the 1200 mile mark from the factory fill up)...now 147,000 miles. Again stress 180 degree oil temps before the fun begins. 3000 mile oil changes.
BMW has had many oil related failures (spun bearings) on M3/M5 engines. Friend lost his M3 (last generation of the 8000 rpm straight 6) just cruising down the road (never autocrossed, never tracked) using BMW factory 15,000 mile intervals. I don't agree with that...oil wears out.
I had a XL500R that uses the oil for both engine and trans and it started to get real notchy shifting after 2000 miles. Oil change made it buttery smooth. That was worth the change for the 2.5 quarts it took-what else gets notchy in an engine.
Loren commented zinc helps old style engines...I think he meant roller lifter rather than rocker-lifter is the concern. I didn't believe it until I pulled a flat tappet out of my Nova and it had concaving lifters (not yet destroyed). I then switched to the Rotella diesel oil. I'm now canning that and moving to a roller cam (more power too!).
My 2 cents, oil is cheap...engines are not if it ever comes to that. Make sure it isn't low and it has heat in it before the green flag-I'm sure you can run whatever you want for brand and be ok. I like convenience and nothing more convenient than M1 at Walmart for $24.
NOW I've got to figure out the best fuel ... been running the 110 octane non-enthanol race fuel (best smelling gasoline around - smells like the old days!). It was interesting how much this fuel smell was in the oil we took out of the motor last night. Rob estimated the compression ratio to be 13:5 to 1 and recommended at least 103 or 104 octane. Anyone know where I can find 103 or 104 non-enthanol gas?
I have researched the race-gas concentrate but it's actually more expensive than buying the race fuel out of the pump locally. VP and other race fuels are twice the price as well.