Potential New Trailer build for 08'

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Postby WAFlowers » Sun Dec 09, 2007 3:58 pm

The make is "Express". They (the Express trailer people, not the auction house) are located on Ulmerton just around the corner from my office!

I'll try and get there in the next day or two and get info on that model.
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Postby Native » Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:06 pm

Awesome. Thanks.
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Info on auction trailer

Postby WAFlowers » Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:18 pm

OK, I visited the manufacturer (Express Trailers on Ulmerton) and got a quote on the exact same trailer that is being auctioned.

It is a single-axle 6x12 with rear double-doors and a side door. I believe the interior height is 6'5" (which is standard -- they have lower and can build higher however).

The trailer weight is 1410lbs empty. The GVW is limited to 2990lbs because there are no trailer brakes, giving a load limit of 1580lbs which we'll never hit.

BTW, the side door adds negligible weight (est. 10lbs) as do the rear double doors vs. a single ramp door.

Express has one in stock currently and the pre-tax price as configured is $2957 (including a roof vent -- a $55 option ... something I don't recall from the auction trailer).

So, if we want to try to get this trailer someone needs to get to the auction house in time to register before the trailer is auctioned at noon tomorrow (details at http://www.bayareaauctionservices.com/). I'd suggest showing up around 11am to be safe. Be prepared to walk away if the price goes too high, or to pay for it (Visa or MC is OK) if you win.

If wanted/needed, I could be there with you. The auctioneers know me which can help sometimes.

And finally I also got info on a double-axle trailer from Express. It weighs an extra 475lbs (1885lbs empty) and increased the GVW to 7000lbs. Ridiculous for our needs! It also increases the base price by $850. Bottom line, we don't need the 2nd axle, we don't want the extra weight, and we can't afford the extra expense. All IMHO of course.
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Postby WAFlowers » Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:31 pm

Going back over this thread I came upon this:
Dave-ROR wrote:Rear ramp door is better than the two side openers for sure.. it's not the ability to roll stuff in and out so much as the ability to walk things in and out without climbing stairs.
All the enclosed utility trailers we are currently looking at sit MUCH lower to the ground than our current trailer. They would be a single step up requiring no external stairs to get in.

However, I'm not disputing the advantages of a rear ramp.
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Postby WAFlowers » Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:37 pm

Jamie wrote:If we ever decide we really need a ramp, easy enough to make a plank ramp and store it inside.
I have a pair of plank ramps with aluminum ends that I'll donate to the club. The aluminum ends accept pins (now lost, just buy some nails) that drop into holes that we'd drill into the floor to keep the ramps from shifting.

Put the two ramps side-by-side and you'd be able to safely walk up and down and easily roll out coolers, chalker, etc. :D
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Postby WAFlowers » Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:56 pm

Charles wrote:Using a combination of wood/alum and fiberglass like most do we will be sitting around 1,100 lbs empty for anything we can work out of. I'm guesstimating more alum and less wood would drop empty weight by maybe 300 lbs ?
From what I've seen researching trailers, the aluminum skin is mostly to keep the weather out. The rigidity is obtained with interior plywood which also keeps the contents from punching through the aluminum when (not if!) it shifts.
I'm sure we are closer to TRIPLE than double this 1,000 lb mark with what we have now.
Based on what I know know about the additional weight of 2nd axle and the difference in size and frame structure between what we have and these utility trailers, it wouldn't surprise me if our current trailer was 3000 lbs.
EDIT:

http://www.rnrtrailers.com/enc_cargo.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If you look at the PDF on this page you'll see even these run just over 800 lbs empty.

I say we build one! Aluminum everything :lol:
You were looking at the 5x8, but we decided a 6x10 or 6x12 is needed. That raises the weight to the range of other commercial trailers we've seen.

I don't think we could build anything ourselves much lighter that would also be strong and sturdy enough in that size.
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Postby WAFlowers » Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:01 pm

Last thought ... for now.

We've talked about the advantage of a V-nose trailer to help cut the wind.

My research turned up the info that it also adds 100+lbs to the trailer and puts that mostly on the tongue, where we least want it.
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Postby Charles » Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:17 pm

WAFlowers wrote:Last thought ... for now.

We've talked about the advantage of a V-nose trailer to help cut the wind.

My research turned up the info that it also adds 100+lbs to the trailer and puts that mostly on the tongue, where we least want it.
Hmm 100lbs sounds high but I'd maybe buy that....... also it's sounding like we should stick with a barely used trailer as opposed to new.

This means most likely dropping that requirement from the search because they are hard to find..... maybe 1 in 10.

Either way we will need to add our own window(s) somehow. I'm thinking one large window on the side opposite the side door and that's it.

Good info......

BTW: My buddy has a 6x10 enclosed trailer, single axle with elec brakes that I hitched up and towed around earlier this week.

Since I have no brake controller in the car I had no trailer brakes and I also left about 600lbs of his equipment inside and it pulled relatively easy and braking wasn't a scary situation. I would say for a narrow tow vehicle like mine we need some of those clamp on towing side mirrors so you can actually see around it :)

Towing this trailer confirms my 3,000lb + guesstimate on the current trailer as I could move this ~ 1,500lbs from a stop effortlessly. Getting our current pig moving was a chore.

[img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w237 ... 010003.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w237 ... 010002.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w237 ... 010001.jpg[/img]
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Postby WAFlowers » Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:41 pm

Charles wrote:Hmm 100lbs sounds high but I'd maybe buy that....... also it's sounding like we should stick with a barely used trailer as opposed to new.
I took the numbers from the R&R Trailers specs that you posted a link to earlier in this thread at the top of page 3. 100lbs extra for a 6x10 and 120lbs extra for a 6x12.

I was surprised too!
This means most likely dropping that requirement from the search because they are hard to find..... maybe 1 in 10.
Yep.
Either way we will need to add our own window(s) somehow. I'm thinking one large window on the side opposite the side door and that's it.
Sounds good to me, although we could probably get one in the side-door side as well if we wanted. And/or in the barn doors.
Good info......
Thanks.
BTW: My buddy has a 6x10 enclosed trailer, single axle with elec brakes that I hitched up and towed around earlier this week.

Since I have no brake controller in the car I had no trailer brakes and I also left about 600lbs of his equipment inside and it pulled relatively easy and braking wasn't a scary situation. I would say for a narrow tow vehicle like mine we need some of those clamp on towing side mirrors so you can actually see around it :)

Towing this trailer confirms my 3,000lb + guesstimate on the current trailer as I could move this ~ 1,500lbs from a stop effortlessly. Getting our current pig moving was a chore.
That is great news! :D

And, if there was 600lbs of equipment in it then you were probably towing closer to 1750lbs than 1500lbs at a guess, based on comparitive trailer specs I've been seeing.

It makes me wonder if we are underestimating our current trailer at 3000lbs! :shock:
The Jag complains about autoX by throwing Gearbox Faults.
I think it is just lazy.
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Postby Native » Fri Dec 14, 2007 11:20 pm

Bill, thanks for looking into it, and (ahead of time) for stopping by the auction on the way to tow our current trailer up to B'ville.
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Postby WAFlowers » Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:03 pm

I made an "executive decision" and decided to bid higher that Steve and I had decided based on further research on prices of used trailers. My last bid was $1500 but I was outbid at $1600. :evil:

I would have had to go to $1700 plus 10% buyers commission plus tax.

I think I made the right decision to drop out of the bidding but, darn, that trailer would have been perfect! :roll:
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Postby Native » Sun Dec 16, 2007 5:42 am

Thanks for the efforts, Bill! At least now between Charles "test-tow" and the market research you and others have done, we've got it narrowed down.

I guess now it's just a matter of watching the ads.
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Postby impalanut » Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:25 pm

Here's another one on Craigs list



http://tampa.craigslist.org/for/512027011.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Postby impalanut » Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:47 pm

Here's a really clean one for a little more.




http://daytona.craigslist.org/car/497411222.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
rippin mazda

Postby rippin mazda » Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:58 pm

I'll admit that I haven't been following this discussion post by post, but I want to add my two cents. lol
I think brakes should be a given on which ever trailer you select. Charles probably wouldn't have even noticed the trailer if he had a brake controller. Good controllers are cheap now too, I have a Tekconsha Prodigy that works off intertia to apply trailer brakes and I paid about $90 shipped. The only downside is that with brakes, the trailer will have a 7 pin RV style plug. Wiring a 4 flat connector wouldn't take more then a few minutes so that makes it accesible to all.
But if it has brakes, mine as well use them, the extra stopping distance they give you can mean the difference between stopping in time or getting a nice new hood ornament.

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Postby Charles » Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:26 pm

rippin mazda wrote:Charles probably wouldn't have even noticed the trailer if he had a brake controller. Good controllers are cheap now too, I have a Tekconsha Prodigy that works off intertia to apply trailer brakes and I paid about $90 shipped.

Like this?
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BC~90185.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I honestly didn't feel the braking was too bad with my front stoptech BBK etc, although I could see a potential for a hairy situation at highway speed with the du-mass drivers around here.....
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Postby WAFlowers » Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:55 pm

impalanut wrote:Here's a really clean one for a little more.




http://daytona.craigslist.org/car/497411222.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The first trailer you posted seems to be a low-height unless the photo is vertically compressed. Judging from where the doors go to this one might be a bit tight on head-room too.

However, we'd have to call to be sure.

Charles is on the trail of a new trailer for about the same price as this or possibly even less! :shock:
The Jag complains about autoX by throwing Gearbox Faults.
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Postby rippin mazda » Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:06 am

Yup thats the one. I guess the price went up alittle.
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Postby impalanut » Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:15 pm

I have the same controller and its great. When I got new tires at the trailer place near my house he mentioned he may be willing to trade our trailer for one that is more suitable. Should I follow up or just wait until we find one we like and sell the one we have?
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Postby Charles » Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:43 pm

impalanut wrote: Should I follow up or just wait until we find one we like and sell the one we have?
If he has anything clean 6' tall inside 6x10 or 6x12 at the largest single axle only shoot me an e-mail with the details and I'll fwd it off to Bill too.


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