Need more -camber on the front of my wrx. Having to run too much pressure to minimize rollover. Are camber bolts adequate. Kind of hesitant as they are called crash bolts for a reason. Plates would be better but 250 vs 25...
Also, any recommendations for street/autocross pads? Looking for better initial bike and a firmer feel. Not a fan of noisy brakes. Would prefer more dust to more noise.
Opinions on Camber bolts and brake pads
-
Jason Souza
- Well-Known
- Drives: 2016 Subaru WRX
- Joined: August 2016
- Posts: 282
- First Name: Jason
- Last Name: Souza
- Favorite Car: 2016 Subaru WRX
-
Loren Williams
- Forum Admin
- Drives: A Mirage
- Location:
- Safety Harbor
- Joined: December 2006
- Posts: 13047
- First Name: Loren
- Last Name: Williams
- Favorite Car: A Mirage
- Location: Safety Harbor
Opinions on Camber bolts and brake pads
They are called "crash bolts" because their design purpose is to bring a car back into proper alignment after something gets a little bent in a crash. Buy quality bolts and torque them properly, they are more than adequate. A lot of people use crash bolts in both the upper and lower positions to get as much camber as they can.
Most struts can also be attacked with a die grinder or a file to make the bolt holes slightly slotted rather than round. Some cars (early Saturns, for instance) specified this (up to a certain amount) as a factory-authorized repair method. Has exactly the same effect as a "crash bolt", but you retain your original full-thickness bolt... and if you've got the equipment to do it, it's free!
You may also be able to slot your upper strut mounting holes a little bit to tip the top of the strut inward a bit.
FWIW, we've done both of those grinding tricks on the FASTiva to get our ~3 degrees of negative camber.
Don't over-think the brakes. They just slow you down!
Most struts can also be attacked with a die grinder or a file to make the bolt holes slightly slotted rather than round. Some cars (early Saturns, for instance) specified this (up to a certain amount) as a factory-authorized repair method. Has exactly the same effect as a "crash bolt", but you retain your original full-thickness bolt... and if you've got the equipment to do it, it's free!
You may also be able to slot your upper strut mounting holes a little bit to tip the top of the strut inward a bit.
FWIW, we've done both of those grinding tricks on the FASTiva to get our ~3 degrees of negative camber.
Don't over-think the brakes. They just slow you down!
Loren Williams - Loren @ Invisiblesun.org
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
The "Push Harder, Suck Less" philosophy explained:
Push Harder - Drive as close to the limit of your tires as possible.
Suck Less - Drive something resembling a proper racing line.
-
Jason Souza
- Well-Known
- Drives: 2016 Subaru WRX
- Joined: August 2016
- Posts: 282
- First Name: Jason
- Last Name: Souza
- Favorite Car: 2016 Subaru WRX
Opinions on Camber bolts and brake pads
Sounds good. Many thanks. Camber bolts have been ordered. Hoping going from .8 to 1.8 will help my tires a good deal.
-
Dave --
- Notorious
- Drives: Isuzu Pick-Up
- Joined: January 2007
- Posts: 848
- First Name: Dave
- Last Name: --
- Favorite Car: Isuzu Pick-Up
Opinions on Camber bolts and brake pads
What Loren said. I was only about to get about -1.5 out of my BRZ with them, but it was worth it.
-Dave
I drive really slow cars... really slowly.
I drive really slow cars... really slowly.
Return to “Autocross/Track Setup”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests
