Switching to ATE brake fuid

[JasonS]

I have bleed brakes before and can handle that no problem. But, I question if switching fluid type changes the process. I am assuming you need to be sure to get out all the old fluid but that seems tricky since you cant let the reservoir go empty. Just pull out of reservoir as much as possible to keep air from getting in and fill with ATE and bleed? Does it take longer to ensure all old fluid is out? Sorry for the NEWB questions, just like to be sure a head of time.

[Evil MS3]

Pretty much the same process as any normal bleeding. Get what you can out of the reservoir with a turkey baster(or your tool of choice) and fill with the new fluid and bleed as normal. A lot of people will use products like ATE Super Blue as it's easy to tell once you've flushed the old fluid out since the color coming out of the bleeder will change. Then on the next fluid change, go back to the other color.

[aw614]

Superblue was banned a few years ago b/c of the color. ATE type 200 is still available and is the same thing without the dye.

[Loren]

You can usually tell the difference between new and old brake fluid. But, yeah, just keep pumping the fluid through and refilling without letting it suck air until you see clean fluid or you're at least sure you put enough fluid through the system.

[JasonS]

Sounds good, thanks everyone.

[JasonS]

Trans fluid has been swapped, hawk pads installed, and brake flush/bleed done. Bleed clutch too while I was at it. Didn't solve the squeak problem though. Gonna take more tinkering. Managed to drop a 14mm impact socket into engine bay never to be seen again. Also managed to gash a whole in my finger that required 3 stitches. Made the rest of the work a little more interesting trying not to hit it or rip the stitches out.

The brakes feel amazing. So much more bite and much more solid feeling. Nice improvement, day and night kinda stuff. Did have to replace another wheel stud. Gonna replace all the crap oem ones one of these days. Wanted to do my camber bolts while I was at it but faced so many problems along the way I decided to skip it. No more tempting fate.

[Jamie]

Didn't solve the squeak problem though.

If it's anything like a Honda, the return spring at the top of the clutch pedal arm starts to squeak at some point. Never found a cure for the Prelude...once I knew what it was, I just lived with it.

[JasonS]

Supposedly you can grease the fork and slave piston every so often to mitigate it. Also saw where someone adjusted the play out the clutch pedal to keep a tiny amount of pressure on the fork to keep it from chirping. Hesitant to do that. Seems kinda sketchy, would hate to case issues or have premature wear if I adjust too far.

[aw614]

Im curious to hear about greasing the fork and slave piston to mitigate the squeaking. I know Honda offers this high temp urea grease that I bought, but I haven't had a chance to try it out on my slave (bought it to grease my shift linkage.

I also experienced the same squeak like Jamie and it too sounds like its coming from the clutch pedal return spring. The combination of the car being louder and using the radio, I don't really hear it, but it still drives me nuts

[twistedwankel]

The combination of the car being louder and using the radio, I don't really hear it, but it still drives me nuts

Silent but deadly like an old fart.

[CaptainSquirts]

I've tried the ole greasing the slave cylinder where it pushes the clutch fork, still made a eeek spongy sound feeling when the clutch was pushed to the floor. From research I believe the feel/sound is coming from the felt bushing/springs that is on the fork.

[Loren]

Good thing those are so easy to get to.

[CaptainSquirts]

See, it's easy for Loren so whenever he has another groj day just stop by and he will swap em out e z p z

[AScoda]

what is that black tube sticking through the top?

Filler neck so you can fill your bellhousing with clutch oil?

You have topped off your clutch oil lately right?