aging water heater

[Native]

So a while ago, my homeowners insurance - Citizens - decided they wanted an inspection. When the inspector called to set it up, I asked what kind of inspections, and he called it a "mini 4-point." Whatever. Anyway, part of the inspection was he wanted to see the water heater. And then I was reminded that the build date on it is 2004. I have a 20-year-old water heater (about right, as I recall it was a few years old when I moved in 13 years ago). Never heard a thing about the inspection, so that part was no big.

Quite a few years ago, I'd replaced one of the heating elements. All's good until, oh, a couple months ago, when I started noticing inconsistent water heating - but only in my shower, any other taps were fine. So, I spent some time fussing with the shower cartridge. Cleaned it. Replaced the guts. And it was ok for a while, but then the issue returned, and not just in my shower. Hmm. I knew I needed to replace the water heater before it fully croaked, or sprang a leak, but I wasn't ready at that moment.

Instead, I crack open the service panels, get my handy multimeter. Watch some YouTube to remember how to do what I needed to do. Ah yes, lower element is not working. So I trot down to Home Depot and got an element. Two, actually, as I figured since I'm there I may as well swap 'em both. Got home, and started draining the heater, at which point I realized how long that was going to take. So, to kill time, I went back to Home Depot and got some trim I need for a door/frame I'm rehabbing.

A couple hours later after the tank drained, I went to remove the elements. Where the heck is my element socket-thingy? I KNOW I have one - I did an element before. But I can't find it. So, after giving up trying with what tools I had, I went back to Home Depot - for the 3rd time (thank goodness it's only 5 minutes away). Got the tool.

Got the elements changed. Refilled the heater, turned on the power and checked stuff with the multimeter. Top element is working, but the bottom has no power - not the element, not the thermostat. Shoot. So, more YouTube, and I was able to figure out that the lower thermostat had no continuity. Yup, 4th trip to Home Depot for a new lower thermostat. It has proper continuity, so I stuck it in, wired it up, and turned it all on. I can hear the top element doing it's thing, but the bottom is quiet, and the multimeter shows zero power. Ah man. Now I'm wondering if the wire from top to bottom rotted, or some such.

It was close to 6 now, and time for food. And more YouTube. And what I found out was that never do both elements have power. The top heats, and when it reaches temp, it shuts off. If water is being used, then does the top thermostat route power to the lower element to heat the cold water entering the tank. So I used some hot water, gave it a few minutes, then went and checked. Sure enough, bottom element now has power.

So I revived my ancient appliance, and was able to take a hot shower without have to rush to beat the hot water supply.

And I guess I need to figure out about a new heater. I was thinking tankless, but the first bit of info I came across suggested that I don't have the required electrical service. Will confirm that, but will probably end up just getting another 40-gallon tank like I have now. More modern will hopefully be more economical, if nothing else. And if I do go the conventional route I'll likely install it myself (likely? um, make that "maybe"), which will make it even more economical. We shall see.

[Loren]

Good job on the troubleshooting, repair and Internet sleuthing!

I'll add this: The water heater has an "anode rod". It's like a 3/4" diameter rod of metal (Zinc, as I recall) that works by electrolysis to keep crud from building up on your heating elements, and also helps prevent corrosion of the tank. You've gone this far. Go ahead and put a new anode rod in it, and it should be good for at least another 5 years.

Warning: When I did the anode on my water heater, it took a LOOOOOOONG hit with an air impact to break it loose! It was stupid tight. Be sure you have a good-fitting impact socket.

I went down the "water heater upgrade" rabbit hole a few years ago when I did my garage cabinets. I replaced my tall water heater with a shorty to fit under the counter. Considered a "whole house" tankless option, and for our usage case (just two people, not a lot of hot water usage), it could have worked. But, reading up on all the maintenance, and the electrical requirements... a standard water heater was way, way, way cheaper and easier. (and, yeah, a new one will be better insulated and more efficient)

Another thing I did a long time ago was install a water heater timer. It turns on for about an hour before we need water in the morning, and again at around 7pm. Maybe again at around 2pm on weekends, I don't remember. It works so well that I don't even bother to adjust it for daylight savings time. It just lets the water cool down a little bit during non-peak hours. We never notice any lack of hot water at all.

This is the timer I've got. It's been in service for over 10 years without a thought.
Link

[Native]

I'm just gonna replace it. Not gonna mess with anode rods and dip tubes (or whatever they're called).

Thanks for the info on the tankless.

I had it on a clock for a while. I disconnected it cuz the heater is near my bedroom wall. In the morning when it would turn on and the heater would start clicking and popping... it would wake me up. I might try it again with the new one - it might be quieter.

[Loren]

Yeah, my water heater is in the garage, other end of the house. If it makes noise, I've never heard it.

Sounds like you've replaced half of your water heater as it is. I'd leave it alone for at least a year or so, get some use out of those new parts.

[Native]

Elements ( 2 ) - $25.
thermostat - $13.
Tool - $9.
Labor - priceless

It's nice to not have to hurry through a shower...

And, I'm also not in a hurry to spend 1-2 thou. But I will, eventually.

[Loren]

I thought water heaters were still in the hundreds? It's only been a couple years since I bought one!

Unless you're paying for installation, but that's just silly. It's just some wire and plumbing.

[Native]

I looked right-quick one of those times I was in Home Depot. Cheapest on display was about $600. And I'm not getting the cheapest one. Plus install if I go that route. So, a grand at the low end.

Yes, the wiring I can handle. I haven't soldered copper in a long, long, time. And time - it may be one of those things I choose to farm out and pay for as opposed to spending a day on it. I mean, c'mon, it took me 6 hours to change 2 elements.

[Loren]

Just like working on a car, a lot of times I'd rather do it myself and know it's done right. And if I happen to make a mistake, I don't have to call somebody back out to fix it!

Copper is easy. Lemme know when you want to do it. I'll bring my torch and some solder and flux. For the $400 you'd pay somebody, you can buy me lunch and still have $350 left!

[Native]

Lol, thanks. I'll check with you when the time comes.

[AScoda]

Dang. I replaced mine myself a couple of years ago. Was like $450. It's gas though, so prices may be different.
I wheeled the old one out to the street and someone stopped to throw it in their truck within the hour. lol. Anything metal gets picked up pretty quickly. Guy that used to live across the street had a business that made ornamental iron. Those fancy swirly fences and gates and what not. He used to leave any scrap metal by the alley and it would just disappear. I have kept up the practice.

[Native]

My experience with scrap metal is the same - put it by the curb, it's gone by the end of the day. "Best time" was once I put a metal cabinet out, and a guy in a truck came by for it before I got from the street back to my house. Hah!