Tune 'n' 'charge 'n' tune

[Native]

Genius! Did you order a new header yet?

No.

[Native]

One of the parking brake mechanisms on a caliper has been frozen open forever. In March of '21, I purchased two new rear calipers.
Yesterday I installed them. What can I say...I eventually got to it.
Will watch seals for leaks...

[Loren]

[Native]

Brakes are good. Need to adjust the parking brake - they grab, but the lever comes up way too high.

Car's up on jackstands to do the rear main seal. Started on that today. Will pick at it over the week. Brian's gonna bring over his trans jack on Saturday to do the actual trans removal.

I decided to use the stock manifold instead of a new exhaust header. Even a cheap Chinese header shipped will cost me around $400, is of good odds of not fitting right, and it's not worth it. Once I sell the Racing Beat header I have, if I don't like the way the car feels, I can always put the money to a new header. So, while the car's up on stands, I'll do the exhaust components too.

And I read the DIY Autotune directions for configuring available ports (to make the evap purge valve work right). It is beyond my skill set. I wonder who I know with good electronics knowledge?

[Loren]

You need some solderin' done? Point me to some directions and source the parts. I can do that.

[Native]

MegaSquirt add a port.pdf

(209.22 KiB) Downloaded 454 times

Soldering? Maybe, I really don't know. It might be software configuring, or circuit testing.
I don't know this stuff, which is why I got the plug-n-play version. There's talk of transistors and resistors and resetting jumpers and lots of stuff that's plain ol' beyond me.

From my reading of it, on the first page it speaks of using the Fast Idle Spare Port, which is already wired to run a relay or small solenoid - and it's a small solenoid I'm wanting to trigger. But that's as far as I'm able to take it, and I'm not confident I even understand that bit correctly...

So, I'd like some guidance. I don't want to muck it up - I like the car with a working ECU.

[Loren]

Okay. Probably something we'd be better to do at my place. Access to soldering tools and stuff.

[Native]

Sure thing. Once the car is back together and runs, let's set something up!

[Native]

Welp, got the main seal changed out and the transmission reinstalled 10/11ths. One of the bolts didn't want to torque right, I ended up overdoing it and twisting it mid-shaft. Made quite the noise. With much good luck, the entire bolt came out. Gotta get a new bolt. No, I have no idea how I managed to do this. I'm guessing the bolt was fatigued, and it took less than the called-for 60ft/lbs to kill it. All the others felt just fine, torqued with what felt like the same amount of force.

I've got plenty to reassemble while I source the bolt...it's on the bottom, easily reached.

[Loren]

You probably had Ron torque it last time.

Fun fact: I accidentally opened this thread to the last post on the first page, which was when you ordered the Megasquirt. That was 7 years ago last month.

[Native]

... eventually...

I'm getting closer. I did the shifter, the back calipers, figured out the gas smell, the main seal, and upon reassembly will have taken care of the header. With your upcoming participation I'll fix the gas smell, and tweak the tune (which actually won't take long). Next is the cooling system - needs a good flush and that aluminum radiator I have. Then I'll fit the supercharger. So... what, another year or two?

[Loren]

I've always been a fan of not rushing a project, but rather enjoying the process. Let's go with that.

[Native]

[Native]

Car's back together and on the ground. If it's not raining at some point tomorrow I'll take it for a test drive and see if I get that 5 HP that new main seal is supposed to make. And make sure nothing falls off.

I lost 3 hours messing with the old, old studs and nuts on the stock exhaust manifold. They did not like nuts spinning on them (and I use the term "spinning" loosely - they were neither spinning, nor loose). I ended up cutting/drilling one out (the other two I managed to remove via the nut that was newly stuck in place). Parts store had no studs available, and neither did Mazda dealer. Picked up some stainless bolts and such at the Depot.

[Loren]

All the joy that used to be a "modern and trouble-free Miata" vs. an old classic British roadster is rapidly diminishing as the NA and NB Miatas reach the 30 year mark. They're falling victim to the same maladies as every other "old car" at this point.

But, now that you've got the stock manifold back on... you can put that supercharger on it and add 40% more power!

[Native]

I rejoice in the fact that it isn't modern - I can still fix it. And if I don't touch it, it is reasonably trouble-free.
But, at 30 years, it is now officially "antique." ...and "eventually" stronger.

[Loren]

Yeah, it's funny how "old car guys" used to bitch about the fuel injection, computers and electronics in cars from the 80's and 90's "I can't work on this". They had no idea!

Now, you truly can't work on a modern car without having special tools to interface with the CANBUS and reset this, recalibrate that. One of the reasons I got out of my Smart as fast as I did. Mercedes didn't want to service them... freakin' SCARY to have a car with that much "stuff" that can go wrong, and no dealer support even if you wanted it!