Da Groj

After some failed attempts, camber plates are finally on the way. Took forever to find a place that actually had them in stock. There are surprisingly few options for this chassis that work with stock spring perch. My plan is to start off with -2.8, just because 2.5 seems too little and 3 seems to much. Opinions?

So I have these and some RE-71s on the way with plans on aligning to 0 toe all around and -2.8 as stated. Really hoping this takes care of a lot of push. Heard a rumor that Joe's garage is no more, is that true? Would much rather give him my money than some scummy shop.

I'm running -3.5 and plan on cranking it up to -4. I would maybe push it to -3 at least for you imo.

Also why do you think -3 would be too much?

I spoke to him a while ago. He wants it to cool off way too hot.



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Fwiw, Bill runs over -5 on his VW. But only for events... dials it back on the street.

JasonS wrote:Heard a rumor that Joe's garage is no more, is that true? Would much rather give him my money than some scummy shop.

Magooiii wrote:I spoke to him a while ago. He wants it to cool off way too hot.

It's cool enough now he'll recover from the heat strokes shortly. No AC in his garage for all day Bimmer jobs.

I adjust my camber plates for every event-- after I arrive to the site and before I leave for the day. The adjustment is pretty easy (<5 mins per side), and it saves the tires on the street. I set mine to the minimum setting for the street (~ -2.5°) and the maximum setting for auto-x/track (~ -5.0°)

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R slick tires recommend a min of -3* but I often wonder if there is any real advantage of going beyond that with any street rubber? The construction seems totally different.

Example: I put Extreme W/D Continentals on my RX8 a couple years ago and went on a 4500mi Fall road trip. When I got back with my -2* all around camber settings the tires had conformed to that shape in the softer Wet rubber. So I was going to flip them on the rims. Then it occurred to me that this is beneficial for xcross purposes sort of giving me -3.5* total negative camber now that I'm running -1.5*all around. I can actually see the D on the inside of two tires now:) Pretty good handling for a 340q rated rain tire. Apparently they are only available in one 20" size now. Too bad. I was the same times as Todd in his R tired Miata low buck until my tires got hot and went away. For only 3 or 4 runs they are pretty hard to beat. Need it to rain again. Maybe put sprayers above each tire as I run in summer?

Running -3.5 camber, I still get more outer tire wear than inner tire wear, just a little bit.

fwiw both plates and adjustable ball joints get it there. Front springs are pretty soft too.

Native wrote:Fwiw, Bill runs over -5 on his VW. But only for events... dials it back on the street.

I picked 2.8 based off almost nothing. So 3.5 - is my new target. Thanks all.

Original date i was supposed to get them was tomorrow, now its next week. hope to get them installed before the dogtrack but that probably wont happen. But the fresh rubber arrived today

Many thanks to Joe for getting these caber plates installed.

Unfortunately, all we could get out of it was 2.4... Kinda sucks, they cost a lot of money for that small amount of camber. I have some camber bolts that ill throw on in hopes of getting to 3. Guess ill have to wait to get coilovers to find the rest. But hey, 2.4 is a lot better than the .7 it was. Just wish I hadn't spent so much to get it.

So now im running 2.4 and an 1/8th of toe out. Looking forward to seeing what kind of difference it made.

Oh, it will make a huge difference! That's a big change in camber. And a touch of toe out is always nice.

Re-71's and toe out, prepare for all the wear!

I don't think coilovers would make a difference in camber unless the camber plate itself allowed more angle, or where the strut/coilover mounts up to the hub allows you to push the coilover more.

Macpherson struts work differently than the fancy pants expensive systems. Keeping in mind you haven't done hardly anything to your M car you will still need time to adjust:)

If your camber plates are the "good kind" you can mark them for normal driving and max them out for autocross after you arrive at the event.

The limiting factor was the spring perch. It was hitting the fender liner. We considered cutting the perch but decided against it.

First event in the bag and the changes to the car were more than I anticipated. The front end stuck, the back did not. Almost spun in the first run and it was glorious. Ya see, I had been running rear tire pressure around 46 to loosen it up a bit, and I kept that pressure after adding camber and some toe out. Once I dropped it back down to match the front at 38 things got much better. I will still have to re-calibrate to the new found front end grip and and looser rear end, but all in all, I'm happy with the results (handling wise, not time wise). It seems like the car was too easy to drive before, if that makes sense. I could just throw it and trust it wouldn't spin, it would just push if I got too froggy. Now I feel like it will take more finesse to be fast, which I look forward to figuring out.

Good stuff!

I think I kinda had the same symptoms as you, especially in slaloms. If I had quick transitions, my rear would start to swing out too much while the fronts held fine. I had to basically be a lot more smooth entering slaloms and not go in too fast or my back end would come out.

Yes. That exactly

CaptainSquirts wrote:I had to basically be a lot more smooth entering slaloms and not go in too fast or my back end would come out.

JasonS wrote:Yes. That exactly

The shock of it all. Spending hours/days and many dollars to make a clawing, grabbing, howling, shrieking AWD monster into a "normal" sports car.