Noob questions about various maintenance items...

[Gerry]

Car in question: my 2000 Accord with 94k miles. Yea, sorry it's not my autocross vehicle, but I'd prefer advice from here rather than Tampa Racing....

1. Does the brand of spark plug wires matter? 100% stock, no mods whatsoever. Is cheap okay? Ricers are recommending the $50 NGK wires. I find it really hard to believe that I need those.
2. For hoses, should I buy them locally or guestimate lengths/sizes and get them from Rock Auto?

I ask because there are a few maintenance things I've gotta do to the Accord and I'd rather put one order in as opposed to two or three. I've checked the manual and inspected the car to the best of my noob ability, and here's the list I came up with:

1. Harmonic balancer
2. Valve cover gasket + spark plug tube gaskets
3. Spark plugs
4. Spark plug wires
5. New hoses

My fluids and brake pads look good. Brake lines look healthy, as well as the front calipers and rotors. I have rear drum brakes; no idea how to inspect them. The automatic transmission fluid should probably be changed, but I don't know the difference between a "flush" and "change," so I'm not sure what to say.

If you have any "while you're at it, you should also do <blank>" suggestions, please let me know.

Thanks!

[Loren]

Aren't Hondas "interference engines" with timing belts?

"Interference" means that it's possible for the valves and pistons to make contact if the timing belt breaks (unlike a Miata). That would be a bad thing.

[Gerry]

I should have mentioned that the timing belt and water pump were done 8k miles and 1 year ago. Good to go on that. To my knowledge, the 2.3L 4 cyl is not an interference engine.

Excuse my ignorance, but I'll try my best to explain this question. Here's a picture of a similar Accord I found online. See the part circled in red:


I believe it's the distributor. If so, should I worry about replacing the O-ring in it? It looks like oil or something was seeping around it. I'm just trying to think of rubber parts that have deteriorated over time...

[twistedwankel]

Car in question: my 2000 Accord with 94k miles.

1. Does the brand of spark plug wires matter? 100% stock, no mods whatsoever. Is cheap okay? Ricers are recommending the $50 NGK wires. I find it really hard to believe that I need those.
Yes buy a name brand and type recommended for your car. I don't replace the wires unless they are deteriorating with cracks or engine is missing.
2. For hoses, should I buy them locally or guestimate lengths/sizes and get them from Rock Auto?
Again. I don't replace hoses 'just because' unless they are soft when squeezed, collapsing or bulging. I had a brand new heater hose blow out recently so assume it was made in China out of licorice. I do yearly change out one premixed gallon of coolant to keep the head gasket from leaking due to electrolysis.

I ask because there are a few maintenance things I've gotta do to the Accord and I'd rather put one order in as opposed to two or three. I've checked the manual and inspected the car to the best of my noob ability, and here's the list I came up with:

1. Harmonic balancer Have to question this?
2. Valve cover gasket + spark plug tube gaskets No biggie but sometimes the bolts are just loose from time.
3. Spark plugsI like platinum Bosche, etal as they have low resistance and last 50k. Put neverseize on threads of plugs and don't over torque into aluminum head.
4. Spark plug wires Don't buy the 'economy wires' you might just want to stick with the originals. My 93 Ford has 7 original wires that work fine with only one newer one.
5. New hoses Don't go cheapo on these. Advance Auto heater hose sucks.

My fluids and brake pads look good. Brake lines look healthy, as well as the front calipers and rotors. I have rear drum brakes; no idea how to inspect them. Take the rear wheels off and the drum should pull right off unless there is a high lip of rust holding it on that will require some tapping. Or some cars have clips on lugs sometimes. Most places will gladly inspect brakes for free during an oil change. Just say NO to the repairs.The automatic transmission fluid should probably be changed, but I don't know the difference between a "flush" and "change," so I'm not sure what to say.Many people never change their fluid if it doesn't smell burnt as they think the worn clutch material helps it shift. A 'flush' they pump new fluid thru trans removing all the fluid from converter and valve body leaving pan in place thus no new filter. A 'change' means drop the pan, change the filter and clean off the magnet which only removes about 4 quarts of fluid in the pan. I prefer the 'change' with a new filter every 50k or so which in my case is about every 10 years.

If you have any "while you're at it, you should also do <blank>" suggestions, please let me know.
Anymore it seems like I end up putting about $1500 of professional paid parts/labor services into a used car to make it new again = up to my standards. ONLY at a trusted garage and ONLY if I know what's wrong first. Too old to lay on back wrenching but do the stuff you are talking about myself. That's why I never buy a car needing body work as that's just nuts expensive.

Honda's drivelines are mostly bulletproof for 1/4 million miles if cared for like you are doing. Sounds like you picked an excellent daily driver!! Good luck with it.
Doug

Thanks![/quote]

[twistedwankel]

I believe it's the distributor. If so, should I worry about replacing the O-ring in it? It looks like oil or something was seeping around it. I'm just trying to think of rubber parts that have deteriorated over time...

If you pull the distributor make sure the engine is at TDC and that you put it back in properly OR the car will be way out of time!! There is always a very specific set of rules for replacing a distributor gear to allow for the bevel. Don't worry. Be happy.

[Jamie]

I'm about 80% aligned with Doug, but I've accumulated a couple of different lessons over six Hondas and 750,000 miles:

1. Does the brand of spark plug wires matter? 100% stock, no mods whatsoever. Is cheap okay? Ricers are recommending the $50 NGK wires. I find it really hard to believe that I need those.

NGKs are basically the OEM wires; if you don't get them, use something of equal quality. You'll probably spend as much -- in fact, $50 isn't a bad price.

2. For hoses, should I buy them locally or guestimate lengths/sizes and get them from Rock Auto?

Painful experience taught me it's worth buying factory hoses, because they're molded to shape, and aftermarket hoses, even if they claim to be OEM-spec, just don't seem to fit. I've also seen heater hoses twice deteriorate from the inside and not show any sign (by sight or feel) until they leaked. Now I just replace the hoses at the same time as the timing belt as cheap insurance. YMMV.

I ask because there are a few maintenance things I've gotta do to the Accord and I'd rather put one order in as opposed to two or three. I've checked the manual and inspected the car to the best of my noob ability, and here's the list I came up with:
1. Harmonic balancer

Nah.

2. Valve cover gasket + spark plug tube gaskets

Only if leaking.

3. Spark plugs

Definitely. Use NGK or Denso -- my Hondas never liked Bosch. If you replace the distributor cap and rotor, use factory parts -- I and a number of others have had problems with the setscrew backing out of aftermarket rotors. The grief isn't worth it.

4. Spark plug wires

Up to you, but if you do, use good ones.

5. New hoses

See above.

My fluids and brake pads look good. Brake lines look healthy, as well as the front calipers and rotors. I have rear drum brakes; no idea how to inspect them. The automatic transmission fluid should probably be changed, but I don't know the difference between a "flush" and "change," so I'm not sure what to say.

Change.

...should I worry about replacing the [distributor] O-ring...It looks like oil or something was seeping around it.

If it's leaking oil, you'll need to replace it. Otherwise, don't mess with it. I've never had to replace one.

If you have any "while you're at it, you should also do <blank>" suggestions, please let me know.

Flush the brake fluid -- same procedure as bleeding, except keep pumping brake fluid out (and topping off the reservior) until it runs clear. Repeat for each wheel.

To my knowledge, the 2.3L 4 cyl is not an interference engine.

Double check. If it's an F-series engine (look at the engine number stamped on the block), it's an interference design.

I'll vouch for bulletproof -- my current Prelude has nearly 240,000 miles with nothing more than normal maintenance.

[Gerry]

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate it!

I probably should have mentioned that my harmonic balancer is in fact damaged. It looks like the rubber layer/section crumbled and is now slightly off balance, so it wobbles. It wobbled enough to flatten the teeth, almost knock out the crank key (not sure on terminology), and shot both the belts off (yesterday wasn't a fun day). Watching it operate, it looks like the bolt holding it in is perfectly coaxial with the crank shaft, so (thankfully) the crankshaft is straight. I was scared for a second before I checked carefully, haha.

[blacksheep-1]

Dude, just noticed this, do not drive the car, if that balancer comes off ,it's very , very bad (I put one through a hood once) It can also break the end of the crank.Check NAPA and see about a replacement, or maybe it's time to upgrade to a "trick one". Do not buy a "used" one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFwnCi3gaug" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.gomiata.com/gemamihaba.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.fluidampr.com/MAZDA.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Gerry]

Rob, it's for the Accord. But yea, I did buy a new one, which also comes with a new key. The car is not being driven.

Here's what I ended up buying:
1. Valve cover gasket + spark plug tube gaskets (yea, was leaking. Needs replacement)
2. Harmonic balancer (I have the tool to install it; the thing that holds the crank shaft in place)
3. Distributor O-ring (was less than a buck and many threads on Honda-Tech recommended it be changed)
4. Air Filter (mine's probably okay for a little more, but I can't remember when I changed it)
5. PCV Valve
6. NGK V-Power spark plugs

I can't find any definitive answers on whether or not I need new spark plug wires. I figured I'd install the new plugs with the current wires and see how it goes. If it's not okay, then I'll buy NGK wires and do it right. As for the hoses, none seem to be leaking, but I haven't done a thorough test yet on any of the vacuum lines.

How would you guys suggest I check for leaks in the vacuum lines? Starter fluid spray?

I'll definitely bleed/flush the brakes. I'll look into a transmission fluid and filter change; it's a bit out of my skill level at the moment.

Thanks, all!

[Jamie]

How would you guys suggest I check for leaks in the vacuum lines?

If it runs smoothly, that's enough of a test.

[Gerry]

It's all in there and everything is running great! Woohoo!

Just need to flush the brakes and change the ATF.

[Solar]

If you haven't flushed the brake fluid yet, I'd recommended that you buy speed bleeders if you're doing it yourself. They're pretty much fool proof, you can do it by yourself, just make sure to keep the master cylinder full after every wheel you bleed.