New Clutch?

[JasonS]

Shopping for opinion here:

My car is in the shop for a throwout bearing and turbo inlet recall. After speaking with them, I can elect to have them install a new clutch for no labor since they are already in there for the bearing. The car has 34k miles. Should I pay for a new clutch now and save the labor costs? Prolly means I will miss this weekends event since it won't be broken in yet. If I'm going to do that, do you think they will install an aftermarket? Should I just go oem since I don't have big power plans?

Any thought?

[CaptainSquirts]

Oh man tuff decision. Can u just take it after the event then have it done? Also I would stick with oem because they can void warranty if you have an aftermarket and I would be little surprised if they eve would install an aftermarket. Plus better drive ability with oem, no point going aftermarket if you stay at stock powers. Also aftermarket clutch would knock you out of stock class I think? IMO.

[JasonS]

They already have had the car since last thursday. they had to order parts. So no, I can't delay till next week. Dont think i want aftermarket anyway. I do plan on some power but nothing crazy. Just a tune, maybe eventually a downpipe. How much is a clutch install lately?

[CaptainSquirts]

From a dealership, it'll be a lot, probably a thousand at least... A performance shop will that works on subaru's will be a lot cheaper. For my car it was 500-600ish for labor so it'll depend on who you take it to. If you do plan on getting the aftermarket stuff, I would then get the aftermarket clutch installed so it can handle the extra power and not crap out as fast.

[Native]

aftermarket clutch would knock you out of stock class I think

Nope.

34k miles seems a tad early, to me, even with the expense, and the autocrossing...

[CaptainSquirts]

aftermarket clutch would knock you out of stock class I think

Nope.

I was more thinking of SCCA classing, not fast classing that it would knock you out of stock class, but again I might be wrong

[CaptainSquirts]

34k miles seems a tad early, to me, even with the expense, and the autocrossing...

34k miles with all those launches at autocross def should be a lot of wear and tear on the clutch, especially on an awd vehicle.

[Loren]

I believe clutch material, just like brake material, is unrestricted even in SCCA Stock ("Street"). I don't think they would allow a different TYPE of clutch disk. Changing to a puck clutch, for instance.

The rule specifically says "Alternate components which are normally expendable and considered replacement
parts (e.g., engine and wheel bearings, seals, gaskets, filters, belts,
bolts, bulbs, batteries, brake rotors, clutch discs, pressure plates, suspension
bushings, drivetrain mounts, fenders, trim pieces, fuel filler caps, etc.) may
be used provided they are essentially identical to the standard parts (e.g.,
have the same type, size, hardness, weight, material, etc.), are used in the
same location, and provide no performance benefit."

Curiously, verbatim, it would indicate that even brake pads should be exactly the same as stock. But, I KNOW that people use alternate brake pads in stock. I must be missing something.

Ah, here you go.

"13.6 BRAKES
A. The make and material of brake linings may be changed"

So, SCCA rules "if it doesn't say you can, then you can't". It specifically says you CAN use different brake pads. It doesn't say you can change your clutch. So, by the book, you'd need a stock clutch. (not that anybody's gonna look or care, especially at the local level)

To your initial question: Yes, replace the clutch disk while it's apart. That's another 30k miles you can delay the inevitable clutch replacement in the future. If they'll do it, JUST replace the clutch disk. (don't resurface the flywheel or worry about the pressure plate, just give yourself a little more clutch disk) They should have that part in stock, or you can get it locally. Shouldn't hold up progress getting the car back together.

[twistedwankel]

aftermarket clutch would knock you out of stock class I think

Nope.

34k miles seems a tad early, to me, even with the expense, and the autocrossing...

Like Steve says.

The "few" times you autocross and you pile most miles driving to work. So the deal is what does the dealer marked up parts cost is all? I would definitely have them replace the pilot bearing if your car uses one? If they are willing to only replace the clutch plate and not the pressure plate and refinish the flywheel that could be a really great bargain. Free labor is hard to pass up:)

I and a couple dozen or so fellow persons put hundreds of xcrosses on my RX8 clutch over the last 7 years and it had 60k on it when I got it. The clutch and throwout bearing with that abuse lasted until 86k miles. Then it started slipping. Your's could easily last over 100k mostly daily driving.

It's all about the money. It cost me a lot to replace my clutch since the flywheel wasn't reusable!!! Labor was only $240 from a mechanic friend with a lift.

[JasonS]

I was hoping for consensus. You guys aren't making this easier. But since Lauren is known as the "Professor" its hard to discount his advise. Im sure there is a lot of life left in my clutch but its hard to say no to that much free labor/money. But i also really dont want to miss this event. Not sure if I will need that drop later. Plus its been a month and I am jonesing.

Subaru online says just the clutch plate is around 150.00. Thats a damn cheap clutch replacement and very hard to turn down. Don't know what the dealer will try to charge.

[CaptainSquirts]

Not sure if I will need that drop later.

Checks points, 12 0 12 12 12 12 12....
You're fine..

[JasonS]

If they'll do it, JUST replace the clutch disk. (don't resurface the flywheel or worry about the pressure plate, just give yourself a little more clutch disk)

So I may be a little slow, but are you saying that if i dont have the flywheel resurfaced or the pressure plate replaced then I won't have the brake-in issue?

[Loren]

I didn't say that, but if your metal surfaces aren't worn funky... and you're replacing with the same clutch material... there ceratianly won't be a LOT of break-in required. Just like brake pads... part of the break in process is transferring the lining material to the mating surfaces. That part is already done.

I would imagine that everything in there is worn evenly... no issues. So, personally, I wouldn't hesitate to slap a new disk in there and enjoy the potential 30k more miles before a clutch job.

As for break-in, my theory is to do a few "slippy" launches to get some HEAT into the clutch. Just enough that you barely smell it. Then drive normally for long enough for the temps to normalize. At that point, your clutch is pretty much broken in... same way you break in brake pads.

[twistedwankel]

Subaru online says just the clutch plate is around 150.00. Thats a damn cheap clutch replacement and very hard to turn down.

Loren and I totally concur on that!! A pilot bearing is peanuts too if you want one. I merely assume the Dealer will insist on you paying them to resurface the flywheel with the new clutch plate so that's $60? Still really cheap. A dealer has to warrantee their repair parts for one year but the labor isn't free. Ouch.

**Let me tell you an AWD boosted clutch story. The clutch is the thing that slips rather than snapping a CV joint/axle when you are way over boosted or dumping a clutch at rpm. How do I know that? A fellow drag racer friend running 400HP in his AWD DSM always carried a spare front CV axle assy to the dragstrip. He was using a Centerforce clutch = gripped more with rpms = something's got to give. I seasonally raced an overboosted (300HP) DSM AWD for nearly 10 years 85K miles then gave it (stock) to my daughter who ran it to 130k with the original clutch and CV joints. Then sold it.

Someone in S2 will certainly let you co-drive one event if you've used up all 3 drops all ready? You can pay them back with a co-drive later with a new clutch:)

[jbrannon7]

Change it.

[Native]

^^^
If it's truly only an extra $150, yeah, do it.
Otherwise I stand by my opinion that it isn't worth the money.

[Lava Speed 05]

Dooo eeet

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[RedBRZ80]

If they'll do it, JUST replace the clutch disk. (don't resurface the flywheel or worry about the pressure plate, just give yourself a little more clutch disk)

So I may be a little slow, but are you saying that if i dont have the flywheel resurfaced or the pressure plate replaced then I won't have the brake-in issue?

So I’m jumping in on this late. But stock classes have to have stock clutch’s.

As for break in.. I dropped a new clutch in on a Thursday and went to Firm that Saturday. That was 50k miles ago in the brz.


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[twistedwankel]

You do realize of course that you get to "keep" the used part you replaced? Ebay. Ask Loren to measure the pad with his digital "thingie".

[Loren]

That bit of info would be useful if you also took a measurement of the new stock replacement. Would be interesting to know how much wear had occurred. But, just in a geeky scientific kind of way.