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Postby Rawkkrawler » Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:33 am

I’d personally be nervous about a motor that last ran 7 years ago. Quite a bit can go wrong with a motor sitting that long. And there’s a big difference between a skilled engine puller at a salvage yard vs someone that actually opens a motor open to look at rings and rod bearings. To my knowledge, those are two very different people. I’m leaning toward Loren’s recommendation, find one that ran recently. Mileage seems to mean a whole lot less today. Just my 2 cents.
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Postby friskyflea » Sun Feb 03, 2019 12:40 pm

Mike, I appreciate the opinion; go back to the 13th post where I included a link to the business that has said engine. Of all the salvage business I have looked at, all on paper, this seems the most careful/thorough. If you can find a local engine that "ran recently" *please point me toward it,* because I haven't found it yet, and I'm pretty good at unearthing data. What is available has all been sitting for a while, and not with the care that Stricker auto purports. When I call them I will discuss several scenarios with them and see what they say. Joe, yesterday night I found out the recommendation that you suggest, and I'll see if they volunteer it when I express my concerns. That would tell me quite a bit about how they operate. I understand that it cranking by hand or otherwise still doesn't guarantee proper compression, but that would be true of every other engine that I look at unless it can be tested/checked before purchase. After spending a late night gathering information, this is not too unlike a biological system. Just different vocabulary.
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Postby friskyflea » Sun Feb 03, 2019 12:44 pm

Short of buying a whole used car to satisfy that "recently ran" criteria, we are chasing an unicorn. And, a *manual transmission* unicorn at that, in a car whose market was hardly automotive enthusiasts looking for a 5-speed power pocket rocket.
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Postby jbrannon7 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 1:46 pm

Have you considered taking plug 2 out and using your endoscope to see inside the cylinder? Probably a waste of time but you never know.
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Postby blacksheep-1 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:18 pm

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Postby Rawkkrawler » Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:36 pm

Perhaps I'm biased, but I'm with Rob :)
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Postby twistedwankel » Sun Feb 03, 2019 4:19 pm

Too bad you can only use a 2007-8, 1.5 manual engine. Honda Racing has been providing 2009 1.5 new crate Fit race engines in USA since 2010 for their FF class. No idea what they cost? But they probably won't fit your application anyhow? Finding an 11-12 year old original engine in good shape is a tough call. The rebuilt heads cost almost what the whole engine does and would involve a bunch of extra money in gaskets and ARP bolts (+$200). So I see your issue in replacing your head only.

Since the labor is free to yank and replace the whole engine even if it doesn't run properly between Ebay and PayPal your initial expense is covered. PayPal guarantees for up to 6 months I think? Ebay a matter of 90 days? I was able to return a palletized set of seats for $100 UPS picked up at my house when they were misrepresented by a seller who claimed they were damaged in transit. He was trying to scam the UPS insurance and got caught. So as long as you use Paypal to pay for it- your back will be covered no matter who you buy it from. BUT you will be out the time it takes to do it + return shipping. A long term "business" would not want bad Soroya Voodoo certainly.

I bought a rebuilt "built" Ford 306 once thru Ebay one State over and had to have it delivered to my work for common carrier. Cost me about $1200+shipping is all (1998 $). Was a beast. So it can be done. No core. Ebay is all about the buyer now. Sellers take a huge risk including banishment. PayPal also.

(Tongue in cheek...you could cut the fuel + spark to #2 and run in the M4 3 cyl class.)

**Oh I found the site $3200. https://hpd.honda.com/store/shop/open%2 ... 00f21sa200
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Postby twistedwankel » Sun Feb 03, 2019 4:48 pm

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/deta ... /overview/
These things really hold their value. And this is a 2007 stick. Rare.

https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchres ... cles=false

Here's all the 2008's seems like a few more sticks than 2007 but more money. Yikes these things are still worth 1/2 value 11 years old. No problem justifying a new engine!!
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Postby Loren » Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:13 pm

Why won't an auto trans engine work?
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Postby twistedwankel » Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:41 pm

Loren wrote:Why won't an auto trans engine work?
I totally wondered about that too?? Must have something to do with the engine balancer.
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Postby aw614 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:07 pm

I would have thought an automatic engine should work too, that or you just swap your accessories and mounts over to the automatic longblock.
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Postby nathanwilliams617 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:10 pm

Rawkkrawler wrote:
Perhaps I'm biased, but I'm with Rob :)
Nah, totally logical. I saved the link...
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Postby Loren » Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:17 pm

That was my thought. (that an auto engine would work)

I also quickly looked on Car-Part.com and there's a TON of these engines out there from both manual and automatic cars! Where are you looking and not finding them? There are LOTS of them, some with VERY low mileage. Some with reasonable mileage and VERY low prices. I mean, we're talking $200 for a good 100k mile engine. That's CHEAP! Find one that hasn't spent a lot of time parked, and is from a car that looks well-kept. Spend the $2-300... and then you've got LOTS of budget left to do ALL of the maintenance stuff from gaskets and thermostat to oil seals and clutch to valve adjustment and whatever.

You can even do what you were already talking about and run the VIN on any engine you're looking at. Get the mileage, see how recent its records are how many owners it's been through, maybe even see the crash that sent it to salvage and know how long it's been off the road.

I sort of understand the appeal of going with an "engine professional" with a good reputation, but at the end of the day, they're just a middle man. They're buying the same engines from the same sources at wholesale prices, and reselling them at a higher price.
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Postby twistedwankel » Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:03 pm

nathanwilliams617 wrote:
Rawkkrawler wrote:
Perhaps I'm biased, but I'm with Rob :)
Nah, totally logical. I saved the link...
For $12 grand I can buy a whole rebuilt title car with that engine in it. Race car with a title. Anything over 350hp is unusable in autocross with 200 tires anyhow.
Besides. Soroya is on a budget with a daily driver. Loren style build. Quick, dirty, fast, reliable. Go Asst. Prof Soroya.
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Postby jbrannon7 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:33 pm

Loren wrote:Why won't an auto trans engine work?
Sometimes they use a different camshaft for auto vs manual cars.
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Postby Loren » Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:56 pm

Absolutely true, Joe. I was just wondering if that was the case... or if she's just making an assumption. And if there IS a difference, is it an IMPORTANT difference.

Sometimes the differences can be an improvement, at least for autocross. They're usually trying to make the torque peak earlier for an automatic transmission. Nice low-end torque is exactly what you want for autocross.

Other differences can be things like different throttle body, different TPS or idle control valve. And if that's the case, she could swap the entire intake manifold off of her old engine.
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Postby SlowMiataDrew » Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:29 am

I'm in!
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Postby Lava Speed 05 » Mon Feb 04, 2019 6:00 pm

I'd be willing to stand around and lend useless comments.... [emoji847][emoji23]

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Postby friskyflea » Tue Feb 05, 2019 1:16 am

Thank you for your comments, and especially for the Major's input. Levity is appreciated.

I already checked car-parts.com (hmotorsonline.com has zilch) and followed the trail of 7 engines; the ones I could get a VIN # for. That was Sunday night. Monday, my very kind and patient State Farm agent humored me and checked their accident histories.

Just a sampling: the most recently "retired" GD3 was on 10/13/17 (Pasco Auto Recycling, Hudson) Their 6 mos warranty is either replacing w/functionally equivalent (unlikely due to scarcity/odds) or refund part of the purchase price, at their option... No mileage recorded at accident time. 14 mos prior it was 107K. They want 450 coconuts

One of 3 in Sebring (Jim's Auto salvage) shows that it became available there/joined their inventory on 10/11/18... after reported in accident and scrapped in VT on 11/2/16... the skiing must have been just too good so this little car stayed up there for nearly 2 years enjoying the bunny slopes before finally migrating south to warmer climes... $480 gets you this retired possible ex-downhill racer.
Their other Grade A engine at 121038K has been sitting for 2 years as well. Can be yours for $450

The one in Orange City (for $649.18) has 100k in one of the pictures... other photos show that they "engine tested 22 minutes" and my favorite photo/evidence... one with a sticker from Insurance Auto Auctions regarding an inoperable hood... watermark on the pic... 12/28/16.... 30 day warranty on engines, but you can buy a 2 yr warranty if you would like to part with more of your money.

My personal favorite is the '07 in Sanford with 117k miles and "tested" (no details as to how, but it "runs good") and with an arrival date of 12/13/18... but with a colorful history; a theft report and an accident on 1/27/17... For $300 I could get an engine that I could drive like it was stolen, because it was, and from the pictures, ended her adventure by smacking her kisser on something and buckled up the hood. This one I was tempted to call on just to see if they would be straight forward of spin a fictional yarn, but I ran out of time as I was at work and did not finish until late.

As pictured, all engines are sitting in their respective carcasses. No details online as to what storage procedures they follow.

When I don't know I ask questions, and learn or teach myself or ask someone to show me. Now, I did not know that accommodations could be made to make an AT into an MT engine that might be somewhat straight forward and not create a creature that may be quirky later. I will be calling Honda to better understand this, but I work off of DATA, not assumptions.

Better low (and mid-range) end torque has been already achieved by the tune so no real advantage in my case to get an ATsolely for that reason. Tuesday, if I can call at lunch, I hopefully will be able to work my way up the Honda customer service hierarchy until I can get to someone with mechanical/engineering chops to get information regarding the feasibility of an AT/MT conversion. I also will be getting contact information from a fellow who sources JDM engines and ships them across the pond to a warehouse in CA and another somewhere in the midwest. Not holding much hope there but I have nothing to loose but a few minutes of my time and he is recommended as having provided engines before that were problem free.

I have not made a decision yet but asked about help with replacement as that certainty had to be in place first before I went down the various alleys, dead ends and rabbit holes. I will research until I am satisfied that all known avenues have been explored.
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Postby Loren » Tue Feb 05, 2019 2:43 am

Oh, I forgot about JDM import engines. That can be a good option for a low-mileage engine.

Sometimes you can dig up useful info from press releases. I found that on the Mirage. They issue very thorough press releases about each annual model release and what was changed for that year. Honda may do the same.
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